Blowing the Xmas cobwebs out (before the build up of Hogmanay cobwebs) - 27-12-12

The window of opportunity seemed to be swinging shut with a significant thaw and similarly significant gales on the way so it was fortunate that Donald was free to nip up to the Northern Corries to see what we could find.  It had been a perfect day on Boxing day so now I was itching to get out even with a 7:00 meeting time in Inverness (1 hour away).  So with little sleep I crept down the slippery roads, snow having dusted my path overnight.  A quick stop off to pick up Donalds boots and then up to the Cairngorm Mountain car park and that slight nagging feeling of doubt - conditions, ability and a questioning of if the misery which goes hand in hand with winter climbing was actually going to be worth it.

Patey's Route, with its two tricky steps, providing a funnel for the spindrift

Patey's Route had been on my mind for some time, cutting a striking line up Aladdin's Buttress, and how hard could it be if the man himself had soloed the first ascent in 1959 shod in nails and armed with only a single axe.

Hints of ice at the crucial steps confirmed our choice and we tramped up to a perfect wind-scoop in which we could prepare.  Donald led out the first pitch with the reassuring words that he had not really led ice before.  However, stopping just short of the first step this would not be a problem.  My attention was momentarily taken by an avalanche pouring out from Aladdin's Mirror.....quite a dark looking avalanche......with dark shapes in it?  When it came to rest a couple of hundred meters downslope, the two dark shapes stood up and dusted themselves down, lucky not to have hit any of the protruding rocks.  Not the greatest inspiration to confidence.  My pause for thought was not long though and soon I followed Donald up some icy steps and some well packed snow in the base of the runnel to where he stood, out of the spindrift beside an intimidating jumble of overhanging lightly iced blocks.

Climbers picking their way up to Fiacaill Buttress

A brief pause for pleasantries and then upwards to try to solve what looked like a tricky problem.  Gear was not a consideration as there wasn't any so it was just trying to find the faith to commit to the moves.  Pausing for consideration, a wave of spindrift caused me to duck in only to late to remember my hood was not up.  Now with my neck and back filled with a liberal pack of snow I focused back in.   Careful footwork and some wide bridging allowed the strength of the axe placements not to be questioned and then a long run out up the steepening bed of the cleft reached a peg and some relaxation.  But now the enclosing walls held a steepening line towards an icicle fringed overhang.  Luckily as the angle steepened ice lined the back of the chimney.  Moving up to the overhang calves and arms were starting to burn, placing a poor ice-screw only adding to the tired feeling.  The angle was highlighted by the ropes hanging free for 15 meters below me.  So instead of confronting the crux straight away I took up residence below the overhang in my ice cave, like some arctic troglodyte.  Eventually it was time to leave my well appointed abode with a runner attached to some old cord disappearing in to the ice, presumably attached to something, providing my only security.

A ramp out left was tricky to reach with feet, or anything else for that matter, and the steep slab above it offered no help.  A blind swing above found what felt like a solid placement over the lip of the overhang and allowed tentative movement out left.  Sneaking upwards a second axe over the overhang added security but balance was precarious and arms tiring.  At last I could get my feet back below me with the ice now offering the relative rest of near verticality.  Now I could see the easing and a wave of euphoria came with it.  A few more moves and I was over the lip and having a quick rest before seeking out a belay.

A well earned drink after a quick ascent of Patey's Route, starting Hogmanay very early

The ground now became easier and a couple of pitches led past the impressive Aladdin's Seat and round to the lip of the corrie.  After what had turned out to be a quick ascent in comparison to recent efforts (2.5 hours) a brief consideration was given to a second route but a walk down in the light was eventually thought the better option and it was good to make it back to my parents for haggis.