Welcome to the CUMC blog

The Northern Pinnacles of Liathach by Steven Andrews

This is the brand new blog from the Cambridge Mountaineering Club in which we would like to tell a little bit about what we have been up to and share a few photos of our times in the mountains, on the crags and possibly even on some boulders or indoor walls. As a mountaineering club in one of the flattest areas of the UK our more optomistic members suggest that we are ideally placed with all climbing grounds being equally far away, therefore encouraging us to visit a wide range of the fantastic climbing that the UK has to offer. It certainly fosters a very active club with trips leaving most weekends to the Peak District, Wales, the Lake District, the south coast, Scotland and beyond. I hope that members of the club and those interested in how mountaineers survive in the flat lands will enjoy some of the tales we have to tell and the pictures that we have to remind ourselves that the mountains are always there, if not near in distance certainly close at hand in our minds.

CUMC winter skills course - Torridon, 19th and 20th March

A group of ten members from the CUMC (James G, Ursula, Adam, Valeria, Tom, Aiora, James H, Vidya, Mindy and Elena) made the long journey north to Torridon to attend a winter skills course with Jim Sutherland and other instructors from 916 mountaineering. After some worry over the lack of snow two weeks ago the 'surprise' late dump arrived on scedule and provided plenty to go at for the beginers, and the more experienced climbers who had tagged along. On the first day the winter skills group headed up in to Coire an Laoigh on Beinn Eighe to practice moving on steep ground in winter, self-belay, self-arrest and snow belays. In between hail, snow and sleet showers everyone had thier fair share of slithering down the coire, and climbing back up again (photos).

Meanwhile Steven and John headed round to the northern corries of Liathach (the source of some problem pronouciations best solved here) to find George (III 4) in Coire Dubh Mor. Passing the 'in condition' Poachers Fall (Right: climbers waiting to start up the steep ice of Poachers Fall) was difficult but being out of

practice, the comfort of a gully seemed a wise choice. Aside from the cave pitch (Below Left) proving a rather tight and awkward squeeze for a 6'4" climber (only manageable without rucksack), the route went smoothly finnishing up a lovely iced groove and was followed by a short walk to the summit of Spidean a' Choire Leith before heading east along the ridge to the descent path in to Coire Liath Mhor.

On the second day the winter skills group split in two with those more interested in the climbing aspects following Stevens giant footsteps up in to Cire Dubh Mor to climb Way Up (I) puting in to action the skills that they had learned the previous day (photos). This route passed through some impressive scenery and they then descended the south side of Liathach through Coire Liath Mhor. The more mountaineering orientated group headed round to the north side of Beinn Eighe for some further practice at snow belays (photos) and conducted some pretty convincing testing to demonstrate just how strong they can be. The more experienced climbers split with Steven taking an enjoyable stroll out to Craig with its wide ranging views out to Skye and the Outer Hebridies and John trying a spot of bouldering on the classic Celtic Jumble from which he returned enthused.

A very tired set of climbers made their way slowly southwards on Monday but were happily filled with thoughts of what could be done next winter and wishing that this winter would carry on for just a little longer. Thanks to Jim for providing excellent instruction and infectious enthusiasm.

James G, Ursula, Adam, Valeria, Tom, Aiora, James H, Vidya, Mindy, Elena & Jim