Sunday 19 June 2011

Back to Gardom’s for some unfinished business……..which, sadly, remains unfinished

Unfinished millstone below Apple Buttress

A month ago a trip to Gardom’s Edge, and in particular Moyer’s Buttress, had inspired me to think that E1 climbing might be a good idea.  However, deep down knowledge was telling me that E numbers were still actually bad for you.   After a couple of good weekends climbing it was time; illness on Friday and rowing on Saturday provided the……..preparation (yep, not perfect).  Taking this lack of energy, belief, skill and strength I sneaked up the opening and easy cracks of Moyer’s Buttress, not allowing the climb to recognise my deficiencies.  I tussled with the wobbling block rounding the corner, and leaving most of the strength I had there, made to stand up in to the good holds but promptly came back down rather more quickly than I had planned as my numbed hands failed to take hold.  I had missed the obvious holds, and gear out to the right and messed up my chances of success.  Lessons leaned: warm up on easier ground?, possibly; learn to relax, definitely; get better, for sure.  Oh well, on with the day of fun climbs without the E1 worry.

So it was across to the beautifully rounded Elliot's Buttress for the direct route to gather what nerves where left before taking in the trilogy of Garden Buttresses offerings - Crack, Direct (direct) and Indirect, which were all enjoyable climbs and offered an opportunity for Marco to practice some leading.  The weather was now turning out perfect with a midge clearing breeze and a patchwork sky so we headed over to Apple Buttress. 
Apple Buttress with Apple Arete, Apple Crack and Cider Apple waiting to be climbed
 Apple Arete was looking too good not to climb so I balanced up again on fantastic friction to the top out flutings which come as a pleasant surprise.  Marco had some further leading practice on Apple Crack and Giant's Staircase and I had the enjoyment of the exposure offered by Cider Apple and guaranteed by the lack of protection it offered.

Another great day in the Peak District if not the grade break through I was hoping for.  Fun routes and good company are however, in my opinion far more important.

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