Seana Bhraigh - The Northern Corries of the the north?

With the weather having descended in to the kind of crap that only the north of Scotland knows how, Friday (30th) looked like the only potential day for getting out for some winter climbing.  A fair frost was forecast and so somewhere that had received, and retained snow had to be the target.  With a thirst for adventure the obvious choice was some climbs on what is often considered the most remote Munro in Scotland, Seana Bhraigh.  A mere 1/2 hour from my highland retreat belies the 15 km approach for which a bike was going to be essential, even if that available to me was far too small for my 6'5" frame.  After the painful approach and the skillful employment of a pair of ice axes in the repair of a bike chain we topped the moraine bound lip of the coire through which a torrent had cut down from the loch above.  A promisingly wild wintry scene greeted us with the pillar of An Sgurr thrusting up to our left and the snow wreathed crags and gullies filling the panorama round to our right. 

The first glimpses on the long approach, An Sgurr on the left

Although ice was beginning to form it  was only present as thin smears and trickles; concern was also in mind over the somewhat damp turf.  Certainly not a day to be trying anything new but rather go with a safe choice which the classic Sunday Post would hopefully provide.  Sunday Post is the left of two prominent gullies that cut straight up the central buttress of the coire.

The buttresses on Seana Bhraigh through which Sunday Post takes the the left of the two prominent gullies on the left hand side of the photo

 Making our way up to the base of the twin gullies we were confronted with some significant and thankfully old avalanche debris with boulders of hard neve containing turf and rocks scattered across the scoured gully floor.  The neve made for good early progress on which we soloed up to the first step.  Setting up a belay, I let Dave lead on up the first pitch which instantly told of what we were in for with crusty snow, behind which water was often running, hollow ice and the occasional but always crucial patch of neve, rock and usable ice which allowed progress.  This was a day for learning and one which the grade was of little meaning.  Four 50 m pitches took us to a scramble through the cornice and a confrontation with the incoming stormy front and the impending darkness.  Each pitch offered something of interest and little meaningful gear but the situation and solitude were breathtaking.  The sustained nature of the climb can rightly be seen as making it a classic, when in condition but in the condition we found it it had to be considered as an adventure rather than a classic.

Soil and rock filled neve from previous avalanches, Sunday Post

 Some slow progress saw us summit at around 3 and a real feeling of distance and isolation descended as did we, trying to make the most of the fading light.  Eventually the head torches became essential and we plodded on through the snow line and in to the darkness.  Rising temperatures and the snow which had fallen throughout the day provided a remarkable landscape, seething with water, intensified in the light of a headtorch.  Approaching lights gave hope of a lift down the glen and out of the now driving rain but it was just a party heading for the Coiremor Bothy.  After the shouting of pleasantries across the raging torrent of the Corriemulzie River (pronounced - corrymoylie) we stumbled uppon our bikes and all that remained was the prolonged soaking which passed for the cycle back down the glen, past the lodge and to the car.


Probably not the classic climbing experience but a fantastic adventure into one of the most remote winter climbing locations in the Scotland and certainly enough to fuel a return trip under better conditions.  A swift drive south to Torridon and continued rain seems the perfect setting to retreat in to a few beers and a couple of whiskys to see in the new year.

The not so Grim Industrial North - Wharncliffe

Autumnal shades offset by the black rock of Wharncliffe

 Well, if your not going to be catching a plane to Australia (damn you QUANTAS), what better way to spend your Sunday than once more hurtling up the M1 to the Peak District.  OK so we seem to go to climb on the grit every weekend I hear you say but, alas...Wharncliffe is not grit - well either is grit but lets not get started with my geological axe which I have been grinding on a metaphorical millstone (possibly of grit) for too long.  However, it has a slightly different stratigraphic position, within the Coal Measures, but it is still a sandstone (as is the grit) and it was laid down around the same time and in the same way.  It does weather differently and therefore does give a steeper more crimpy style of climbing.  It was my second trip there and it certainly had more to give.

Drew belaying on the Great Buttress

 As we arrived we were surprised to be met by those that departed early from Cambridge returning from the crag telling tales of great grimness and generally naysaying (although some naysayers claimed later, never to have said nay).  So it was time to galvanise the troops and steady the rout - well, basically say it will be sunny and the climbing will be ace.  Back up to the crag and using the path along the top, which avoids the grim and green boulder scramble below, we were soon on to the classics of Himmelswillen and Tower Face.  And a trip to Wharncliffe just wouldn't be complete without a traverse of Puttrell's Progress.

Only able to get half in to The Crack of Doom

Showing a natural flare for the flared crack of Doom

 It was then the north end of the north end of the crag that attracted me and the Great Buttress followed by its arete (with the help of Drew leading) soon fell.  Ed also went on to take Trapezium and Photo Finnish, which my fingers gave up on.  With tiring fingers it was time for the offwidth challenge of The Crack of Doom which was probably the highlight of the day, closely followed by Great Buttress Arete.  Handover Arete and Jimmy Puttrell is a Legend finnished the day for my party as everyone else secumbed to the temptation of an offwidth struggle in to which most of the group were eventually swallowed up as the sun set and darkness surrounded.

Pete throwing himself in to The Crack of Doom in the impending gloom

A confusing walk through the woods back to the car and a fine selection of takeaways, with and without lights, in Stocksbridge before back down the well trodden M1 to Cambridge with talk of sea cliffs and limestone enough to get me praying for my fight to leave on Wednesday!

Impeccable technique, as ever from Laurence on the Crack of Doom

Curbar, Black Lurcher & Burbage

Belaying atop the Cioch (no, not that one.........., at Frogbar)

 After a week to recover it's about time to look back on the introductory meet.  It does take about a week to recover from trying to organise over 50 climbers for a weekend trip to the Peak District.....and a similar amount of time for the body to recover from a night in the Three Stags Heads sampling their very fine Black Lurcher.  Around 20 of us headed north for the whole weekend and were joined by a further 30 for the Sunday.  As the Saturday was for new members to the club who had reasonable experience we plumped for the steep and intimidating walls of Curbar.

Just the place to encourage new members ( Straight Crack - Curbar)

Despite most of the group sticking round the classics of Peapod, Maupassant (a french author apparently), Bel Ami, Elder Crack, PMC 1 and Kayak Slab, which all saw attempts if not ascents a number of us decided to wander in to that middle ground of Curgott or Frogbar where the undergrowth gets wild and the holds become more rounded.  This didn't mean lower grades, well, not for everyone, with John and Howie making a fine ascent of Overtaker's Direct and I was pretty happy with the fine technical climbing of Baron's Wall.  Potter's Wall, Cioch Crack, Straight Crack, Calver Wall and Flying Buttress provided some interesting grit learning for the inexperienced. 

A helping hand with the learning experience which is the top out on Cioch Crack at Frogbar

After finishing with the sun setting it was on to the Three Stags Heads to get the genuine CUMC weekend trip experience of pitching tents in the darkness, consuming the strongest beer you can find and trying to ignore they guy wearing a vest in the corner sharpening knives.

The effects of the Black Lurcher setting in with the hare brandishing the shotgun starting to make the most sense

Learning just how rounded a 'hold' can be on Potter's Wall

Sunday morning saw us standing at the Burbage North car park in a state of mild confusion and panic at the prospect of a further 30 freshers arriving but luckily the 'wing it' approach worked, even being mistaken by some, for preconceived plan.  Almost perfect.....except for when I looked around to find myself lacking anyone to climb with.  The roving helper role seemed to suite my mildly lethargic Lurcher induced state which eventually eased as the day went on allowing some fun leads for me and hopefully some fun climbs for the new members to the club.  Ash Tree Wall provided my home for most of the afternoon and between a number of groups just about all the routes were climbed including Ash Tree Variations which gave me hope that I might actually be improving.  It's almost impossible to sum up what 50 people did on a crag like Burbage for a whole day but I do know that it never seemed like we were swamping any of the areas and there seemed to be smiles everywhere when I walked along to shepperd folk back to the bus so all in all a very successful trip.  I think that we may even returned with as many people as we left with.  Thanks to Vincent and Ed for helping organise the trip and all those that helped with leading and making it a great weekend.

Brimham Rocks - oh yes, it does.

Looking out over Brimham Rocks (photo: Ramsey Khalaf)

With Vincent making a great call on the location and weather it was some Yorkshire Grit that was on the menu for the second meet of term (16th Oct).  There were three cars making the journey north and quite a few new members to the club.  The first assault was on Birch Tree Wall with the eponymous route falling first to Ed and Felicity before I eventually made it up Right Wall which I am led to believe is not as hard as its Welsh brother.  Meantime Vincent and Ramsey were deeply involved with Nameless Chimney.  Drew was also in the area tying together a number of different routes in a fairly contrived but understandable way. 

Ramsey following Vincent up Right-hand crack and Ed approaching the horrific top out of Central Crack

We then moved round to Cracked Buttress where we ticked all the lines (but not the Rich), with central crack proving the most fun (for those watching) with its horrendous thrutching top out.  

No point hiding Ed, the top out ain't going anywhere

Ed demonstrating that alongside poise and technique he also can thrutch with the best of them

Not to miss out on the thrutching, udging and general traditional technique we were then followed round to the Fag Slab by Drew where he took on and eventually overcame the green tapering chimney of The Snuffer.  Meanwhile the rest of the group went up Allen's Crack (snigger, snigger), Fag Slab, Fag Slab Variant, Fag End and Pig Traverse.

Drew trying not to get stuck, or for that matter unstuck on The Snuffer

With the day nearing it's end we finished off with some of the fun offered by The Cubic Block and it's always harder than the grade suggests starts.

A great day and some excellent new characters in the club.  The only way to finish it off properly, and probably the main reason to go climbing in Yorkshire, was a stop at the Wetherby Whaler on the journey south.  A week of hectic organisation and it was the Introductory Meet for the freshers - post to follow shortly.

Shadow in Cracked Buttress

First Meet of the New Term - Stanage and a Retreat to Birchen

Sheltering under the tricky 5b start to Verandah Buttress - Stanage

A weather forecast for the optimists had us heading to the Peak District on Saturday.  Quick drying had been my thought and so we plumped for Stanage.  We completed one route, the oddly graded Verandah Buttress (HVD 5b), which set the precedent for the day of using teamwork to overcome the conditions,with both seconds utilising combined tactics of get off the ground.  Vincent made an impressing ascent of a route to the right with few positive holds and ever increasing dampness.  After taking some respite from the now swirling cloud and increasingly persistent rain we decided to retreat to the shelter of Outside in Hathersage and consider our position.

Eventually I went up to help out

We decided that Birchen offered a chance of some drier rock and if not some good damp-proof routes.  Starting of with the everdry and classic Topsail and Sail Chimney we moved on to Sail Buttress and some more slaby routes on Trafalgar Wall which seemed to gain a serious edge in the damp conditions.  The most fun was saved for last with Laurence starting to trust my advice on route choice he decided to have a go at Powder Monkey Parade, a route which is apparantly 'harder for the short who will have to dangle'.  It had been quite a while since he got his foot firmly stuck while attempting to lead Hollyash Crack at Burbage, which I had advised him was an easy and fun route.

After some concerted udging and a fair bit of thrutching (techniques I wholeheartedly approve of) he made it up the initial v diff hanging chimney.  This, for me is the toughest part of the climb.  But then alas an unwillingness commit to the 'dangle' meant no further progress was going to be made.  After much contribution of good advice from below, on the best options for extrication from the route, I decided that it best I climb on up and lead through while Laurence made himself safe by jamming in to the chimney.  The fun of the traverse was offset by some worrying moves on the rather wet upper slabs but soon Laurence was following on and made it up to the top.

Laurence stepping out on to the traverse of Powder Monkey Parade

It was then Sian's turn to have next a go but unfortunately her thrutching techniques were not up to it and so the honour fell to Vincent who 'cut loose' with some wild moves to gain the chock stone before waltzing up the upper section.  I think in the end we made the best of the conditions and certainly met Job's criteria for a worthwhile trip with most of us managing to climb more pitches than we had spent hours traveling to get there.  Looking forward now to some hopefully drier Yorkshire grit at Brimham this weekend.

Vincent cutting loose with a wild thrutch and reaching for the udge before overcoming the cock stone in the v diff chimney

Old News, New Routes

With winter approaching some of us have begun to think about the icy snow clad mountains and therefore started to flick through the guide-books to identify targets and potential adventures.  So the new North Wales Winter Climbing guide was an obvious purchase during a recent wet weekend in Wales.  It was with surprise that I saw a short route described which Juan and Drew had climbed in The Lost Cwm on the way to the Black Ladders back in the January of 2010.  It was with even greater surprise that I noticed the first ascent date given as March 2010.  We had considered this route and one adjacent, which Lucas, Rachel and I had climbed, as not likely to be of enough importance to be worth reporting.  Obviously someone else had, and named the left hand route The Scoop (V4, 40m).

Juan towards the top of his new route and Lucas on the crux of his offering (Memory Fails) - 10/1/10

Enquiries have provided a contact to inform of the new routes for inclusion in the next edition of the guide.  So a nice surprise of a new route for Juan and Drew which I think is likely to be nearer IV4 and awaits a possible re-naming (The Happiest Mexican in Wales).  Furthermore the route led by Lucas gives a nice III3, tentatively named Memory Fails.  This certainly helps to make winter feel closer and the blizzard of email checking who is prepared for the long drives north and the cold belay vigils has begun.

Adventures further afield - Climbers approaching Emerald Gully, Beinn Dearg, Wester Ross

Wet in Wales, scunnered in Scotland and ending up back In England

Well, it's been a while since a post has been made so a title to sum up Septembers climbing was in order. 

Idwall Slabs in rather damp conditions

The weekend of the 17th saw myself Rachel and James head to Wales to try to make the bast of pretty poor outlook across the whole of the UK.  The Ordinary Route on Idwall Slabs, with some scary off-route slab crossings and intermittent waterfalls disgorging from the fissures which formed the climb, provided a wet weather option for the Saturday. 

Waterfalls everywhere within the Dinorwig Slate Quarries

With deteriorating weather on Sunday we then put ourselves in the hands of the local girl Sian to lead us through the maze of Sakes and Ladders (and tunnels) in Dinorwig Slate Quarries which gave quite an adventure - scrambling through tunnels, aid climbing rusty chains of dubious attachment to the rock and climbing ladders of even more dubious attachment.  A fantastic way to explore the industrial landscape and take in some views of some truly stunning looking rock routes to be re-visited in the dry.

James aid climbing up the chain out of Tazmania

Rachel and James beneath the first set of ladders

It was then up to Scotland for me and taking a Sunday (25th) afternoon out from Aberdeen with Alena, Nico and Christina (the night out previous mitigated an early start).  With some impressive hitch hiking from Nico we all made it out to the Pass of Ballater for some fun routes on some perfect granite on the picturesque pine and larch clad hillside above the pass.

Readying for the climbs

The rain happily held off till the evening and allowed us up Jumbled Blocks Crack (VD), Razor's Crack (VS 4c) and Brut (VS 5a).  Not bad for the first outdoor experience for most of the group, although some dubious ethics including some very interesting combined tactics were employed.  It was great to climb with some new people and a really nice relaxing and fun day was topped off by our hitch hiking companion finding a lift back to Aberdeen with some friendly climbers we had got talking to on the crag.

Christina learning to belay with Nico keeping a watchfull eye on preceedings

Christina on the crux of Brute (VS 5a)

The next chance to get back to the rock was Friday (30th) and it was in to the Cairngorms with Rich to have a look at the classic Savage Slit in Coire an Lochain.  Starting up the first pitch, the rock was drying, but once in to the compelling crack line it was clear that this was going to be no fun so extricating myself carefully we settled for a scramble up the Great Slab and eventually we made our way up on to the corrie rim.

Savage Slit takes the obvious corner up the centre of the buttress

Frustratingly we passed a team topping out from Fingers Ridge which looked to be dry, and sheltered from the gales that we thought may have ruled it out.  However, the Northern Corries are a stunning place to spend a day exploring and so it was definitely not a waste of a day, instead just fueling the fire of interest in the sweeping summer lines available in this desolate range.

Looking south into the wilderness of the Loch Avon basin

Disappointment at the demise of Scotland in the Rugby World Cup on Saturday morning (1st) was offset by an enjoyable stop on the way south at Wainstones in the North York Moors and a chance to solo a number of routes while Rich and Nicola went for a run.  The Needle and the Steeple gave some fun routes - up and down - alongside a number of other fun slabs and cracks.  The Sphinx Nose Traverse will have to be returned for though as I decided the exposure may be a bit much for me on solo this time.

The Needle at Wainstones on the North York Moors

One last stop on Sunday afternoon (2nd) to introduce Rich and Nicola to the 'joys' gritstone for which we chose to explore the classics of Stanage.  Flying Buttress was the perfect introduction which we followed up with the steep, for V. Diff., Hollybush Crack.  I wanted to push the gritstone experience with a move on to Hargreave's Original Route on the Black Slab but unfortunately the lack of positive holds deterred Rich.  Nonetheless it was good to grab a few more climbs on the way back to the ever flat East Anglia and a surprisingly enjoyable trip in to London the following day.      

Stanage Advance Party

With all groups from the CUMC intent on Stanage Popular for the weekend it fell to Tanya and I to warm up the crag on Saturday prior to the larger group descending on Sunday.  Arriving at 9:00 after an early start it seemed sensible to take advantage of the Black Hawk area with Black Hawk, Black Hawk Hell Crack, Gargoyle Variant and an excursion to Crack and Corner providing the warm up to Eliminator.

Atop Eliminator

Eliminator proved to be a climb of two halves, the lower technical crux and the upper physical crux.  The technical lower crux required commitment to a move with the feeling of an assured barn door as you pull up on a thin crimp on the arete with feet on the ledge where the gear is staring up at you rather uncomfortingly.  The next horizontal break reached and a perfect cam placement to calm nerves, the next move was to walk the feet up the arete before stretching up for the base of the short vertical crack which can just about provide some restful hand jams while some more peace of mind could be placed.  With strength rapidly failing it was then time to get hands in to the top of the crack and feet in to the base before pushing upwards and going for the next break and hopefully a rest.  DAMN, missed the hold.  To far right.  Not even a sloper.  Moving back down with strength almost gone.  One more try. NO.  Bugger.  Rest.  Oh well, after giving forearms a little time to recuperate it was worth another go.  This time in something approximating technique a tenuous swap of feet in the hold at the base of the crack allowed the move to be made with less energy and I was all of a sudden at the next break with the previously missed hold, a locker.  Quick gear and then up to the rail on the lip of the ledge which heralded a proper rest and the end of the difficulties.  So much climbing in 14m.  That's why grit is special and can give such classic lines.  Will be coming back to this to climb it clean.  Can't wait.

Tanya on Hollybush Crack, her last lead on Grit for a while

A rest over lunch and then it was Tanya's turn on the classic Hollybush Crack before being repelled from Leaning Buttress Direct and Central Trinity by other parties we moved round to the fun of Zigzag Flake-Crack which I had been warned was poorly protected.  Instead I found plenty of cam placements and a very enjoyable climb with classic grit moves in beautifully exposed situation.  Heading back round to the bags Leaning Buttress Direct was now free so it was time to ratify the 5b club card once more.  The bouldery start was extremely bold with what would have been an awkward landing but luckily I didn't test this and after the first move sketched my way up to the ledge at around 3m where at last some good protection could be found.  It then proved equally hard to move on once more from the ledge but the protection was excellent and inspired confidence in the slopy holds available.  Soon the technical difficulties were past and the bold rounded upper half of the climb unwound on perfect rock complimented by a complete lack of protection.  However, rock of such quality would probably be insulted by the need to protect climbing on it.  Tanya arrived at the belay just as my alarm was ringing calling me back to Cambridge and a rowing outing which I would arrive just in time for.

Eight great climbs and a good farewell to another climbing partner, heading back south to South Africa (the way of university mountaineering clubs).  A strange coincidence had meant that Tanya seemed to be my partner on the hardest climbs that I have managed so hopefully she will be back to visit for some more hard grit again.

A relaxed day at Stanage

A large CUMC crew gathered at Stanage Popular on Sunday, as I wanted a last gritstone fix before heading to the US for some proper mountains.

My friend Erin was visiting from the US, and Sarah and I started the day by taking her up Flying Buttress Gully, which she seemed to enjoy.  Vincent and Jen meanwhile tackled a crack climb just to our left (climber's left).

Erin's first rock climb

 Goldie and I then took turns leading folk and teaching belays on Leaning Buttress Indirect, always an enjoyable climb.  Meanwhile Adam led Hangover, an overhanging finger crack, on the other side of Leaning Buttress, which looked a bit damp as well.

Igor had a shoulder injury but was very keen to get out of Cambridge for the day, so spent much of the time testing out his new hand-made gear.  Some climbers were a bit perturbed and chased him away, despite his availability to make tea for anyone who ventured up nearby routes and wanted a half-way rest.

But what have you done on grit?

I spent the rest of the day leading Erin up Vdiff's and Severes and generally enjoying the quality of the routes at Stanage.  Sunshine prevailed for most of the day and we ended the day making a team effort on a HVS (Good Friday) a bit further along, that involved a classic series of toe-ledges and oddly-positioned cracks, then a huge roof which none of us quite managed to finish.

Go Jen!

Now why would anyone try to lead something like that (Good Friday).

A fun day out; three beginners who had a great day and were eager to climb again; and motivation to get stronger and more bold.

Lakes north faces

There is only so long that cragging can suffice so it was with one converted and one, to be converted, sports climbers that I headed to the Lakes for some multi-pitch climbing, setting off obscenely early on Sunday morning.  The early start paid off though and we arrived in Keswick by 10:00 and picked up supplies and advice (from Harry).

 

Eagle and Grey Crags in Burtness Combe

Taking our supplies and advice we headed over to Buttermere which would provide a base for Sundays climbing on Eagle Crag in Burtness Combe on High Stile and the following days ramble over to Pillar.  Our first objective was Eagle Front but we were made to wait as we converged on the route with two other parties.  This allowed a leisurely lunch below the crag admiring the huge corner which forms the dramatic final pitch of the route.  It also allowed Goldie and Adam to catch up after a mammoth drive and take advantage of our guidebook get on to some of the sun drenched classics of Grey Crag, opposite our shady north face.

The open corner of the final pitch Eagle Front dominating the crag

Felix took on the first pitch which followed a line of ribs furnished with rough and giving holds up to a rock ledge.  This provided the ideal warm up for the rest of the climb.  The next pitch was mine and it took a winding line trough a series of awkward ledges and bulges, often resulting in difficulty to feel in balance.  Another spacious ledge was reached with the views out below opening before us.  It was also possible to just make out Goldie and Adam on the opposite crag, with their voices occasionally carried across on the gentle breeze.  Soon though it was time to take on the steep groove above which opened to a committed approach and led to a series of grassy ledges.  Following the ledges leftwards I realised that I had missed the belay and was heading to the base of the next pitch.  Shouting down to Felix and Delphine, I enquired as to their like of grassy traverses.  Felix understood and realised a scary seconding experience was about to be delivered but Delphine was to have the realisation en-route.

Felix and a disembodied Delphine happy on the peg belay of Nail Ledge

My lead again and it was up steep and exposed ground with some enjoyably technical climbing until it was possible to traverse rightwards to a peg belay (Nail Ledge) from which two of the pegs had snapped off leaving me with a sideways nut and the two remaining rusty pegs to secure myself on the sloping belay ledge.  Afterwards by sport climbing tinged partners were surprised at my distaste for this halfway belay as they seemed to consider in-situ protection as a good thing but I had my doubts.  Heading out on the next pitch a long traverse rightwards opened up some spectacular exposure and some complex climbing which eventually landed me at the bottom of easier water worn slabs leading up to the base of the now impending final corner of the climb.

Looking back down to Delphine and Felix from the final pitch of Eagle Front

Beautiful climbing on both walls and within the central crack of this magnificent arcing crack unwound perfectly ahead of me and soon I had reached the open grassy ledge which signaled the end of the pitch and despite is comfortable offering I chose to push on to the top and enjoy the view out west from the top of our climb.  All that was left was to take a stroll over to the crest of the High Stile ridge and enjoy a quick reconnaissance of tomorrows challenge, the intimidating north face of Pillar, and reflect of previous adventures on the surrounding peaks.  Then off down, enjoying the changing views of Buttermere and to the pub to meet up with Harry et al. for some enjoyable catching up and a couple of refreshing ginger beers (how very Arthur Ransome.....except these ones were from Glasgow and contained just a little restorative alcohol).

Hay Stacks in the evening sun

After a little to little sleep we were on the path for Pillar.  Up and through Scarth Gap Pass then cutting back westwards down in to Ennerdale, a little to late, and negotiating some rough ground to make it to the forestry track before crossing the river and making the steep ascent up towards Pillar Rock.

The imposing north face of Pillar Rock rearing up above the lip of the combe

Approaching the base of North-West Climb is seemed unlikely that a reasonable route could make its way up the towering ribs of this imposing face and yet it would.  Again Felix took the first pitch which wound up to the base of a deep chimney.  The chimney in turn provided sustained climbing and eventually the traverse on to the easier and dramatically positioned slabs of the Bounding Buttress which seemed to lean against the steeper walls of the Low Man like a dominoed coffin.  Felix took on the third pitch which wound its way round the projecting ribs, which held the more direct and more taxing climbs, and took advantage of the more friendly recesses leading to a spike and a secure belay.

Felix approaching the belay ater the third pitch below steepening ground

It was then a shallow groove, Lamb's Chimney, for me leading upwards with sustained climbing through steep ground and an interesting exit first left then right before gaining a good ledge, with some interesting geological features (slickensidesMagaton) look relatively inviting. 

Considering my approach to Oppenheimer's Chimney

Oppenheimer's Chimney formed a deep recess tapering backwards from a body-width and with a large chock stone barring progress without tackling overhanging ground.  A few small holds led up the right wall but to reach them use would have to be made of a decidedly shaky flake which I did not want to have to step up on to.  Instead, after finding a thread runner I reached back behind the chock stone and laying back bridged the overhanging left wall to enable a step out left on to the small holds of the right wall.  Reaching up it was then possible to find a balance saving handhold on the right before disentangling my left arm from the chock stone and pushing up to a handrail on the left which provided the confidence with which to continue walking the feet up and past the overhang.  A fitting final flurry from an ever steepening and continually challenging route.  There was just some steep scrambling and a spacious belay could be made in the sun. 

Low man with North-West Climb following the line just left of the sunlit ribs

 After brief discussion it was decided that we had fulfilled our climbing appetite and we would descend Old West Route and spend the time we had left taking advantage of the River Liza, which flows through Ennerdale, by have a refreshing dip.  Feeling like new people we climbed back through Scarth Gap Pass, this time using the well graded path up the flank of Seat which we had been able to locate from our high perch on Pillar.  It was then just the tiring drive south with the extra highlight of a stop at the Whetherby Whaler for some lovely fish and chips with the knowledge of just how much more climbing there is waiting in the Lake District for the next trip running through our minds.

Gable, Scafell & Pillar waiting to yield further adventures