Monday, 31 October 2011

The not so Grim Industrial North - Wharncliffe

Autumnal shades offset by the black rock of Wharncliffe
 Well, if your not going to be catching a plane to Australia (damn you QUANTAS), what better way to spend your Sunday than once more hurtling up the M1 to the Peak District.  OK so we seem to go to climb on the grit every weekend I hear you say but, alas...Wharncliffe is not grit - well either is grit but lets not get started with my geological axe which I have been grinding on a metaphorical millstone (possibly of grit) for too long.  However, it has a slightly different stratigraphic position, within the Coal Measures, but it is still a sandstone (as is the grit) and it was laid down around the same time and in the same way.  It does weather differently and therefore does give a steeper more crimpy style of climbing.  It was my second trip there and it certainly had more to give.
Drew belaying on the Great Buttress
 As we arrived we were surprised to be met by those that departed early from Cambridge returning from the crag telling tales of great grimness and generally naysaying (although some naysayers claimed later, never to have said nay).  So it was time to galvanise the troops and steady the rout - well, basically say it will be sunny and the climbing will be ace.  Back up to the crag and using the path along the top, which avoids the grim and green boulder scramble below, we were soon on to the classics of Himmelswillen and Tower Face.  And a trip to Wharncliffe just wouldn't be complete without a traverse of Puttrell's Progress.
Only able to get half in to The Crack of Doom
Showing a natural flare for the flared crack of Doom
 It was then the north end of the north end of the crag that attracted me and the Great Buttress followed by its arete (with the help of Drew leading) soon fell.  Ed also went on to take Trapezium and Photo Finnish, which my fingers gave up on.  With tiring fingers it was time for the offwidth challenge of The Crack of Doom which was probably the highlight of the day, closely followed by Great Buttress Arete.  Handover Arete and Jimmy Puttrell is a Legend finnished the day for my party as everyone else secumbed to the temptation of an offwidth struggle in to which most of the group were eventually swallowed up as the sun set and darkness surrounded.
Pete throwing himself in to The Crack of Doom in the impending gloom
A confusing walk through the woods back to the car and a fine selection of takeaways, with and without lights, in Stocksbridge before back down the well trodden M1 to Cambridge with talk of sea cliffs and limestone enough to get me praying for my fight to leave on Wednesday!
Impeccable technique, as ever from Laurence on the Crack of Doom

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