Lakes north faces

There is only so long that cragging can suffice so it was with one converted and one, to be converted, sports climbers that I headed to the Lakes for some multi-pitch climbing, setting off obscenely early on Sunday morning.  The early start paid off though and we arrived in Keswick by 10:00 and picked up supplies and advice (from Harry).

 

Eagle and Grey Crags in Burtness Combe

Taking our supplies and advice we headed over to Buttermere which would provide a base for Sundays climbing on Eagle Crag in Burtness Combe on High Stile and the following days ramble over to Pillar.  Our first objective was Eagle Front but we were made to wait as we converged on the route with two other parties.  This allowed a leisurely lunch below the crag admiring the huge corner which forms the dramatic final pitch of the route.  It also allowed Goldie and Adam to catch up after a mammoth drive and take advantage of our guidebook get on to some of the sun drenched classics of Grey Crag, opposite our shady north face.

The open corner of the final pitch Eagle Front dominating the crag

Felix took on the first pitch which followed a line of ribs furnished with rough and giving holds up to a rock ledge.  This provided the ideal warm up for the rest of the climb.  The next pitch was mine and it took a winding line trough a series of awkward ledges and bulges, often resulting in difficulty to feel in balance.  Another spacious ledge was reached with the views out below opening before us.  It was also possible to just make out Goldie and Adam on the opposite crag, with their voices occasionally carried across on the gentle breeze.  Soon though it was time to take on the steep groove above which opened to a committed approach and led to a series of grassy ledges.  Following the ledges leftwards I realised that I had missed the belay and was heading to the base of the next pitch.  Shouting down to Felix and Delphine, I enquired as to their like of grassy traverses.  Felix understood and realised a scary seconding experience was about to be delivered but Delphine was to have the realisation en-route.

Felix and a disembodied Delphine happy on the peg belay of Nail Ledge

My lead again and it was up steep and exposed ground with some enjoyably technical climbing until it was possible to traverse rightwards to a peg belay (Nail Ledge) from which two of the pegs had snapped off leaving me with a sideways nut and the two remaining rusty pegs to secure myself on the sloping belay ledge.  Afterwards by sport climbing tinged partners were surprised at my distaste for this halfway belay as they seemed to consider in-situ protection as a good thing but I had my doubts.  Heading out on the next pitch a long traverse rightwards opened up some spectacular exposure and some complex climbing which eventually landed me at the bottom of easier water worn slabs leading up to the base of the now impending final corner of the climb.

Looking back down to Delphine and Felix from the final pitch of Eagle Front

Beautiful climbing on both walls and within the central crack of this magnificent arcing crack unwound perfectly ahead of me and soon I had reached the open grassy ledge which signaled the end of the pitch and despite is comfortable offering I chose to push on to the top and enjoy the view out west from the top of our climb.  All that was left was to take a stroll over to the crest of the High Stile ridge and enjoy a quick reconnaissance of tomorrows challenge, the intimidating north face of Pillar, and reflect of previous adventures on the surrounding peaks.  Then off down, enjoying the changing views of Buttermere and to the pub to meet up with Harry et al. for some enjoyable catching up and a couple of refreshing ginger beers (how very Arthur Ransome.....except these ones were from Glasgow and contained just a little restorative alcohol).

Hay Stacks in the evening sun

After a little to little sleep we were on the path for Pillar.  Up and through Scarth Gap Pass then cutting back westwards down in to Ennerdale, a little to late, and negotiating some rough ground to make it to the forestry track before crossing the river and making the steep ascent up towards Pillar Rock.

The imposing north face of Pillar Rock rearing up above the lip of the combe

Approaching the base of North-West Climb is seemed unlikely that a reasonable route could make its way up the towering ribs of this imposing face and yet it would.  Again Felix took the first pitch which wound up to the base of a deep chimney.  The chimney in turn provided sustained climbing and eventually the traverse on to the easier and dramatically positioned slabs of the Bounding Buttress which seemed to lean against the steeper walls of the Low Man like a dominoed coffin.  Felix took on the third pitch which wound its way round the projecting ribs, which held the more direct and more taxing climbs, and took advantage of the more friendly recesses leading to a spike and a secure belay.

Felix approaching the belay ater the third pitch below steepening ground

It was then a shallow groove, Lamb's Chimney, for me leading upwards with sustained climbing through steep ground and an interesting exit first left then right before gaining a good ledge, with some interesting geological features (slickensidesMagaton) look relatively inviting. 

Considering my approach to Oppenheimer's Chimney

Oppenheimer's Chimney formed a deep recess tapering backwards from a body-width and with a large chock stone barring progress without tackling overhanging ground.  A few small holds led up the right wall but to reach them use would have to be made of a decidedly shaky flake which I did not want to have to step up on to.  Instead, after finding a thread runner I reached back behind the chock stone and laying back bridged the overhanging left wall to enable a step out left on to the small holds of the right wall.  Reaching up it was then possible to find a balance saving handhold on the right before disentangling my left arm from the chock stone and pushing up to a handrail on the left which provided the confidence with which to continue walking the feet up and past the overhang.  A fitting final flurry from an ever steepening and continually challenging route.  There was just some steep scrambling and a spacious belay could be made in the sun. 

Low man with North-West Climb following the line just left of the sunlit ribs

 After brief discussion it was decided that we had fulfilled our climbing appetite and we would descend Old West Route and spend the time we had left taking advantage of the River Liza, which flows through Ennerdale, by have a refreshing dip.  Feeling like new people we climbed back through Scarth Gap Pass, this time using the well graded path up the flank of Seat which we had been able to locate from our high perch on Pillar.  It was then just the tiring drive south with the extra highlight of a stop at the Whetherby Whaler for some lovely fish and chips with the knowledge of just how much more climbing there is waiting in the Lake District for the next trip running through our minds.

Gable, Scafell & Pillar waiting to yield further adventures