Saturday 13 October 2012

A bit more Arctic - Lofoten 14 to 22/8/12

Approaching Moskenes
The previous evening the ragged skyline, raised across the sea and framed by silhouetted islands and skerries which guard the coastline around Bodo, had been glowing in the late night sun as it dipped below the horizon.  Now the ferry was approaching Moskeness in the south of the Lofoten Islands and the mountains were sweeping up from the sea in vast slabs of granite which cut deep in to the crisp blue arctic sky.  This was where we were to be climbing for  the coming week and yet I was intimidated already by the sublime beauty of these apparently uncompromising mountains.

On the way back down from Bare Blabaer with climbers still on the well defined groove and crack line of Bare Blabaer
The road snaked north from Moskeness, rising over inlets and dipping down through tunnels.  We were aiming for Hennigsvaer which was going to be our base for the week.  Lofoten is known for it's rain, but this was not what we were to be treated too.  Five days of continuous climbing saw us climb from classic to classic whether it was seaside crags or day long mountaineering routes.  The list went on: Bare Blabaer, Pianohandler Lund's Rute, two forays to Paradisset (with Butter Fingers and Dashboard Light providing the highlights), Gandalf, Golum and the Nordryggen of Vagakallen.  Now I just need to head back with a few more grades in hand as I think that E2 would be the grade to start oppening up even more of the classics and it would be worth a return visit if just for Vestpillaren on Presten.
 Bare Blabaer and Gandalf

  Paradise at Paradisset

 Pyramidal Saxifraige

 Storepillaren and Butter Fingers at Paradisset
 On the way up Vagekallen's Nord Ryggen
 Within Vagakallen's granite architecture
The final obstacle before a scramble to the summit of Vagekallen

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