Well, it's been a while since a post has been made so a title to sum up Septembers climbing was in order.
 |
| Idwall Slabs in rather damp conditions |
The weekend of the 17th saw myself Rachel and James head to Wales to try to make the bast of pretty poor outlook across the whole of the UK. The Ordinary Route on Idwall Slabs, with some scary off-route slab crossings and intermittent waterfalls disgorging from the fissures which formed the climb, provided a wet weather option for the Saturday.
 |
| Waterfalls everywhere within the Dinorwig Slate Quarries |
With deteriorating weather on Sunday we then put ourselves in the hands of the local girl Sian to lead us through the maze of Sakes and Ladders (and tunnels) in Dinorwig Slate Quarries which gave quite an adventure - scrambling through tunnels, aid climbing rusty chains of dubious attachment to the rock and climbing ladders of even more dubious attachment. A fantastic way to explore the industrial landscape and take in some views of some truly stunning looking rock routes to be re-visited in the dry.
 |
| James aid climbing up the chain out of Tazmania |
 |
| Rachel and James beneath the first set of ladders |
It was then up to Scotland for me and taking a Sunday (25th) afternoon out from Aberdeen with Alena, Nico and Christina (the night out previous mitigated an early start). With some impressive hitch hiking from Nico we all made it out to the Pass of Ballater for some fun routes on some perfect granite on the picturesque pine and larch clad hillside above the pass.
 |
| Readying for the climbs |
The rain happily held off till the evening and allowed us up Jumbled Blocks Crack (VD), Razor's Crack (VS 4c) and Brut (VS 5a). Not bad for the first outdoor experience for most of the group, although some dubious ethics including some very interesting combined tactics were employed. It was great to climb with some new people and a really nice relaxing and fun day was topped off by our hitch hiking companion finding a lift back to Aberdeen with some friendly climbers we had got talking to on the crag.
 |
| Christina learning to belay with Nico keeping a watchfull eye on preceedings |
 |
| Christina on the crux of Brute (VS 5a) |
The next chance to get back to the rock was Friday (30th) and it was in to the Cairngorms with Rich to have a look at the classic Savage Slit in Coire an Lochain. Starting up the first pitch, the rock was drying, but once in to the compelling crack line it was clear that this was going to be no fun so extricating myself carefully we settled for a scramble up the Great Slab and eventually we made our way up on to the corrie rim.
 |
| Savage Slit takes the obvious corner up the centre of the buttress |
Frustratingly we passed a team topping out from Fingers Ridge which looked to be dry, and sheltered from the gales that we thought may have ruled it out. However, the Northern Corries are a stunning place to spend a day exploring and so it was definitely not a waste of a day, instead just fueling the fire of interest in the sweeping summer lines available in this desolate range.
 |
| Looking south into the wilderness of the Loch Avon basin |
Disappointment at the demise of Scotland in the Rugby World Cup on Saturday morning (1st) was offset by an enjoyable stop on the way south at Wainstones in the North York Moors and a chance to solo a number of routes while Rich and Nicola went for a run. The Needle and the Steeple gave some fun routes - up and down - alongside a number of other fun slabs and cracks. The Sphinx Nose Traverse will have to be returned for though as I decided the exposure may be a bit much for me on solo this time.
 |
| The Needle at Wainstones on the North York Moors |
One last stop on Sunday afternoon (2nd) to introduce Rich and Nicola to the 'joys' gritstone for which we chose to explore the classics of Stanage. Flying Buttress was the perfect introduction which we followed up with the steep, for V. Diff., Hollybush Crack. I wanted to push the gritstone experience with a move on to Hargreave's Original Route on the Black Slab but unfortunately the lack of positive holds deterred Rich. Nonetheless it was good to grab a few more climbs on the way back to the ever flat East Anglia and a surprisingly enjoyable trip in to London the following day.
No comments:
Post a Comment