Old News, New Routes

With winter approaching some of us have begun to think about the icy snow clad mountains and therefore started to flick through the guide-books to identify targets and potential adventures.  So the new North Wales Winter Climbing guide was an obvious purchase during a recent wet weekend in Wales.  It was with surprise that I saw a short route described which Juan and Drew had climbed in The Lost Cwm on the way to the Black Ladders back in the January of 2010.  It was with even greater surprise that I noticed the first ascent date given as March 2010.  We had considered this route and one adjacent, which Lucas, Rachel and I had climbed, as not likely to be of enough importance to be worth reporting.  Obviously someone else had, and named the left hand route The Scoop (V4, 40m).

Juan towards the top of his new route and Lucas on the crux of his offering (Memory Fails) - 10/1/10

Enquiries have provided a contact to inform of the new routes for inclusion in the next edition of the guide.  So a nice surprise of a new route for Juan and Drew which I think is likely to be nearer IV4 and awaits a possible re-naming (The Happiest Mexican in Wales).  Furthermore the route led by Lucas gives a nice III3, tentatively named Memory Fails.  This certainly helps to make winter feel closer and the blizzard of email checking who is prepared for the long drives north and the cold belay vigils has begun.

Adventures further afield - Climbers approaching Emerald Gully, Beinn Dearg, Wester Ross

Wet in Wales, scunnered in Scotland and ending up back In England

Well, it's been a while since a post has been made so a title to sum up Septembers climbing was in order. 

Idwall Slabs in rather damp conditions

The weekend of the 17th saw myself Rachel and James head to Wales to try to make the bast of pretty poor outlook across the whole of the UK.  The Ordinary Route on Idwall Slabs, with some scary off-route slab crossings and intermittent waterfalls disgorging from the fissures which formed the climb, provided a wet weather option for the Saturday. 

Waterfalls everywhere within the Dinorwig Slate Quarries

With deteriorating weather on Sunday we then put ourselves in the hands of the local girl Sian to lead us through the maze of Sakes and Ladders (and tunnels) in Dinorwig Slate Quarries which gave quite an adventure - scrambling through tunnels, aid climbing rusty chains of dubious attachment to the rock and climbing ladders of even more dubious attachment.  A fantastic way to explore the industrial landscape and take in some views of some truly stunning looking rock routes to be re-visited in the dry.

James aid climbing up the chain out of Tazmania

Rachel and James beneath the first set of ladders

It was then up to Scotland for me and taking a Sunday (25th) afternoon out from Aberdeen with Alena, Nico and Christina (the night out previous mitigated an early start).  With some impressive hitch hiking from Nico we all made it out to the Pass of Ballater for some fun routes on some perfect granite on the picturesque pine and larch clad hillside above the pass.

Readying for the climbs

The rain happily held off till the evening and allowed us up Jumbled Blocks Crack (VD), Razor's Crack (VS 4c) and Brut (VS 5a).  Not bad for the first outdoor experience for most of the group, although some dubious ethics including some very interesting combined tactics were employed.  It was great to climb with some new people and a really nice relaxing and fun day was topped off by our hitch hiking companion finding a lift back to Aberdeen with some friendly climbers we had got talking to on the crag.

Christina learning to belay with Nico keeping a watchfull eye on preceedings

Christina on the crux of Brute (VS 5a)

The next chance to get back to the rock was Friday (30th) and it was in to the Cairngorms with Rich to have a look at the classic Savage Slit in Coire an Lochain.  Starting up the first pitch, the rock was drying, but once in to the compelling crack line it was clear that this was going to be no fun so extricating myself carefully we settled for a scramble up the Great Slab and eventually we made our way up on to the corrie rim.

Savage Slit takes the obvious corner up the centre of the buttress

Frustratingly we passed a team topping out from Fingers Ridge which looked to be dry, and sheltered from the gales that we thought may have ruled it out.  However, the Northern Corries are a stunning place to spend a day exploring and so it was definitely not a waste of a day, instead just fueling the fire of interest in the sweeping summer lines available in this desolate range.

Looking south into the wilderness of the Loch Avon basin

Disappointment at the demise of Scotland in the Rugby World Cup on Saturday morning (1st) was offset by an enjoyable stop on the way south at Wainstones in the North York Moors and a chance to solo a number of routes while Rich and Nicola went for a run.  The Needle and the Steeple gave some fun routes - up and down - alongside a number of other fun slabs and cracks.  The Sphinx Nose Traverse will have to be returned for though as I decided the exposure may be a bit much for me on solo this time.

The Needle at Wainstones on the North York Moors

One last stop on Sunday afternoon (2nd) to introduce Rich and Nicola to the 'joys' gritstone for which we chose to explore the classics of Stanage.  Flying Buttress was the perfect introduction which we followed up with the steep, for V. Diff., Hollybush Crack.  I wanted to push the gritstone experience with a move on to Hargreave's Original Route on the Black Slab but unfortunately the lack of positive holds deterred Rich.  Nonetheless it was good to grab a few more climbs on the way back to the ever flat East Anglia and a surprisingly enjoyable trip in to London the following day.      

Stanage Advance Party

With all groups from the CUMC intent on Stanage Popular for the weekend it fell to Tanya and I to warm up the crag on Saturday prior to the larger group descending on Sunday.  Arriving at 9:00 after an early start it seemed sensible to take advantage of the Black Hawk area with Black Hawk, Black Hawk Hell Crack, Gargoyle Variant and an excursion to Crack and Corner providing the warm up to Eliminator.

Atop Eliminator

Eliminator proved to be a climb of two halves, the lower technical crux and the upper physical crux.  The technical lower crux required commitment to a move with the feeling of an assured barn door as you pull up on a thin crimp on the arete with feet on the ledge where the gear is staring up at you rather uncomfortingly.  The next horizontal break reached and a perfect cam placement to calm nerves, the next move was to walk the feet up the arete before stretching up for the base of the short vertical crack which can just about provide some restful hand jams while some more peace of mind could be placed.  With strength rapidly failing it was then time to get hands in to the top of the crack and feet in to the base before pushing upwards and going for the next break and hopefully a rest.  DAMN, missed the hold.  To far right.  Not even a sloper.  Moving back down with strength almost gone.  One more try. NO.  Bugger.  Rest.  Oh well, after giving forearms a little time to recuperate it was worth another go.  This time in something approximating technique a tenuous swap of feet in the hold at the base of the crack allowed the move to be made with less energy and I was all of a sudden at the next break with the previously missed hold, a locker.  Quick gear and then up to the rail on the lip of the ledge which heralded a proper rest and the end of the difficulties.  So much climbing in 14m.  That's why grit is special and can give such classic lines.  Will be coming back to this to climb it clean.  Can't wait.

Tanya on Hollybush Crack, her last lead on Grit for a while

A rest over lunch and then it was Tanya's turn on the classic Hollybush Crack before being repelled from Leaning Buttress Direct and Central Trinity by other parties we moved round to the fun of Zigzag Flake-Crack which I had been warned was poorly protected.  Instead I found plenty of cam placements and a very enjoyable climb with classic grit moves in beautifully exposed situation.  Heading back round to the bags Leaning Buttress Direct was now free so it was time to ratify the 5b club card once more.  The bouldery start was extremely bold with what would have been an awkward landing but luckily I didn't test this and after the first move sketched my way up to the ledge at around 3m where at last some good protection could be found.  It then proved equally hard to move on once more from the ledge but the protection was excellent and inspired confidence in the slopy holds available.  Soon the technical difficulties were past and the bold rounded upper half of the climb unwound on perfect rock complimented by a complete lack of protection.  However, rock of such quality would probably be insulted by the need to protect climbing on it.  Tanya arrived at the belay just as my alarm was ringing calling me back to Cambridge and a rowing outing which I would arrive just in time for.

Eight great climbs and a good farewell to another climbing partner, heading back south to South Africa (the way of university mountaineering clubs).  A strange coincidence had meant that Tanya seemed to be my partner on the hardest climbs that I have managed so hopefully she will be back to visit for some more hard grit again.

A relaxed day at Stanage

A large CUMC crew gathered at Stanage Popular on Sunday, as I wanted a last gritstone fix before heading to the US for some proper mountains.

My friend Erin was visiting from the US, and Sarah and I started the day by taking her up Flying Buttress Gully, which she seemed to enjoy.  Vincent and Jen meanwhile tackled a crack climb just to our left (climber's left).

Erin's first rock climb

 Goldie and I then took turns leading folk and teaching belays on Leaning Buttress Indirect, always an enjoyable climb.  Meanwhile Adam led Hangover, an overhanging finger crack, on the other side of Leaning Buttress, which looked a bit damp as well.

Igor had a shoulder injury but was very keen to get out of Cambridge for the day, so spent much of the time testing out his new hand-made gear.  Some climbers were a bit perturbed and chased him away, despite his availability to make tea for anyone who ventured up nearby routes and wanted a half-way rest.

But what have you done on grit?

I spent the rest of the day leading Erin up Vdiff's and Severes and generally enjoying the quality of the routes at Stanage.  Sunshine prevailed for most of the day and we ended the day making a team effort on a HVS (Good Friday) a bit further along, that involved a classic series of toe-ledges and oddly-positioned cracks, then a huge roof which none of us quite managed to finish.

Go Jen!

Now why would anyone try to lead something like that (Good Friday).

A fun day out; three beginners who had a great day and were eager to climb again; and motivation to get stronger and more bold.

Lakes north faces

There is only so long that cragging can suffice so it was with one converted and one, to be converted, sports climbers that I headed to the Lakes for some multi-pitch climbing, setting off obscenely early on Sunday morning.  The early start paid off though and we arrived in Keswick by 10:00 and picked up supplies and advice (from Harry).

 

Eagle and Grey Crags in Burtness Combe

Taking our supplies and advice we headed over to Buttermere which would provide a base for Sundays climbing on Eagle Crag in Burtness Combe on High Stile and the following days ramble over to Pillar.  Our first objective was Eagle Front but we were made to wait as we converged on the route with two other parties.  This allowed a leisurely lunch below the crag admiring the huge corner which forms the dramatic final pitch of the route.  It also allowed Goldie and Adam to catch up after a mammoth drive and take advantage of our guidebook get on to some of the sun drenched classics of Grey Crag, opposite our shady north face.

The open corner of the final pitch Eagle Front dominating the crag

Felix took on the first pitch which followed a line of ribs furnished with rough and giving holds up to a rock ledge.  This provided the ideal warm up for the rest of the climb.  The next pitch was mine and it took a winding line trough a series of awkward ledges and bulges, often resulting in difficulty to feel in balance.  Another spacious ledge was reached with the views out below opening before us.  It was also possible to just make out Goldie and Adam on the opposite crag, with their voices occasionally carried across on the gentle breeze.  Soon though it was time to take on the steep groove above which opened to a committed approach and led to a series of grassy ledges.  Following the ledges leftwards I realised that I had missed the belay and was heading to the base of the next pitch.  Shouting down to Felix and Delphine, I enquired as to their like of grassy traverses.  Felix understood and realised a scary seconding experience was about to be delivered but Delphine was to have the realisation en-route.

Felix and a disembodied Delphine happy on the peg belay of Nail Ledge

My lead again and it was up steep and exposed ground with some enjoyably technical climbing until it was possible to traverse rightwards to a peg belay (Nail Ledge) from which two of the pegs had snapped off leaving me with a sideways nut and the two remaining rusty pegs to secure myself on the sloping belay ledge.  Afterwards by sport climbing tinged partners were surprised at my distaste for this halfway belay as they seemed to consider in-situ protection as a good thing but I had my doubts.  Heading out on the next pitch a long traverse rightwards opened up some spectacular exposure and some complex climbing which eventually landed me at the bottom of easier water worn slabs leading up to the base of the now impending final corner of the climb.

Looking back down to Delphine and Felix from the final pitch of Eagle Front

Beautiful climbing on both walls and within the central crack of this magnificent arcing crack unwound perfectly ahead of me and soon I had reached the open grassy ledge which signaled the end of the pitch and despite is comfortable offering I chose to push on to the top and enjoy the view out west from the top of our climb.  All that was left was to take a stroll over to the crest of the High Stile ridge and enjoy a quick reconnaissance of tomorrows challenge, the intimidating north face of Pillar, and reflect of previous adventures on the surrounding peaks.  Then off down, enjoying the changing views of Buttermere and to the pub to meet up with Harry et al. for some enjoyable catching up and a couple of refreshing ginger beers (how very Arthur Ransome.....except these ones were from Glasgow and contained just a little restorative alcohol).

Hay Stacks in the evening sun

After a little to little sleep we were on the path for Pillar.  Up and through Scarth Gap Pass then cutting back westwards down in to Ennerdale, a little to late, and negotiating some rough ground to make it to the forestry track before crossing the river and making the steep ascent up towards Pillar Rock.

The imposing north face of Pillar Rock rearing up above the lip of the combe

Approaching the base of North-West Climb is seemed unlikely that a reasonable route could make its way up the towering ribs of this imposing face and yet it would.  Again Felix took the first pitch which wound up to the base of a deep chimney.  The chimney in turn provided sustained climbing and eventually the traverse on to the easier and dramatically positioned slabs of the Bounding Buttress which seemed to lean against the steeper walls of the Low Man like a dominoed coffin.  Felix took on the third pitch which wound its way round the projecting ribs, which held the more direct and more taxing climbs, and took advantage of the more friendly recesses leading to a spike and a secure belay.

Felix approaching the belay ater the third pitch below steepening ground

It was then a shallow groove, Lamb's Chimney, for me leading upwards with sustained climbing through steep ground and an interesting exit first left then right before gaining a good ledge, with some interesting geological features (slickensidesMagaton) look relatively inviting. 

Considering my approach to Oppenheimer's Chimney

Oppenheimer's Chimney formed a deep recess tapering backwards from a body-width and with a large chock stone barring progress without tackling overhanging ground.  A few small holds led up the right wall but to reach them use would have to be made of a decidedly shaky flake which I did not want to have to step up on to.  Instead, after finding a thread runner I reached back behind the chock stone and laying back bridged the overhanging left wall to enable a step out left on to the small holds of the right wall.  Reaching up it was then possible to find a balance saving handhold on the right before disentangling my left arm from the chock stone and pushing up to a handrail on the left which provided the confidence with which to continue walking the feet up and past the overhang.  A fitting final flurry from an ever steepening and continually challenging route.  There was just some steep scrambling and a spacious belay could be made in the sun. 

Low man with North-West Climb following the line just left of the sunlit ribs

 After brief discussion it was decided that we had fulfilled our climbing appetite and we would descend Old West Route and spend the time we had left taking advantage of the River Liza, which flows through Ennerdale, by have a refreshing dip.  Feeling like new people we climbed back through Scarth Gap Pass, this time using the well graded path up the flank of Seat which we had been able to locate from our high perch on Pillar.  It was then just the tiring drive south with the extra highlight of a stop at the Whetherby Whaler for some lovely fish and chips with the knowledge of just how much more climbing there is waiting in the Lake District for the next trip running through our minds.

Gable, Scafell & Pillar waiting to yield further adventures