Sunday Grit at Gardom’s

With a bit of a mixed forecast Rachel, Ben and I decided to plump for Gardom’s Edge in the east of the Peak District for a sheltered Sunday grit fix.  The skies darkened as we drew nearer Chesterfield and a rain shower did not bode well however, we were able to watch the showers pass by all day without any of any consequence reaching us.  Having not been to Gardom’s before I was pleasantly surprised at the excellent variety of climbs that the mix of the quarried and natural edge provides.  Even better was the feeling of sitting in the canopy at the belays with the dappled greens of birch and oak below.  

Sitting atop Apple Arete

 Apple Arete was our first target and this gave a lovely and at times exposed climb up a broad arête on the best king of mildly porous grit.  Rachel then led up N.M.C. Crack which was well worth the three stars following a stepped flake crack up the north side of Apple Buttress.

Ben moving out on to the arete of Apple Buttress

 

We then moved along to Finale Groove which Ben led allowing Rachel and I to enjoy the steep jamming and pinching without any worry of the consequences of a fall.  It is however easier to lead if you have nuts……and don’t drop them half way up.

Ben moving up to the crux ob Finale Groove

 It was then my turn again and I went for Gardom’s Unconquerable in an attempt to get over my failure on its twin on Stanage (luckily this one was a grade easier).  Great lay backing with a steepening and worryingly green and smooth slab for feet lead in two parts to the top, a committing but very enjoyable route.

Rachel Belaying while I take advantage of the rest half way up Gardom's Unconquerable

 Just round the corner it was Bilberry Buttress for Ben to lead which he did in style, only missing the direct finish which was admittedly impossible for the shorter climber but I enjoyed it thoroughly on second.  I then jumped in to lead again, tempted by the interesting line and potential for a sensational finish offered by Undertakers Buttress, another Joe Brown line.  The first move on to the ledge proved to be the crux for me, struggling with the off balance rock over I contrived to perform.  It was then a lovely stroll up some steep slabs, for which I was very glad of a solitary cam, before trending right under the overhang, struggling up on to the face and then back left on positive breaks to as near the nose as feels enjoyable.

Finnishing up the steep ground on Undertaker's Buttress

There was then time for one more lead before the weather followed through on its threats.  We chose to have a look neared where the car was parked and Rachel chose Moyer’s Climb which turned out to be a little green but offer a fun line across the buttress nonetheless.  There was just time to have a quick look around for future trips and figure out what else might offer some good climbing.  My high hopes for Och Aye Wall were somewhat dashed by the lack of holds and the polish that seemed to be on everything that could pass as a hold.  However, Moyer’s Buttress looks like a reason to come back in its own right.

            With time getting on we headed back to the car and making our usual stop at the Union Jack fish and chip shop in Chesterfield for a bargain mini fish and chips before whizzing back down the road to Cambridge.