Karstic Limestone in Paklenica National Park, Croatia

Fluted limestone

Big mountain days, sunny cragging, views of the Adriatic Sea from the mountaintops, and fresh olives and feta cheese are but a few of the delights to be experienced in Paklenica National Park in Croatia.

Rich Shaw and I (team 'Richel') headed down for a long weekend in May to explore the karstic limestone that rises up from the Adriatic Sea and provides a climber's paradise of mountain ridges and big wall faces.

Rich on the second pitch of the ridge up Veliki Cuk

Armed with enthusiasm, a forecast of quite likely showers and possible afternoon thunder, a 60m rope and a pullcord, we popped into town for a breakfast of croatian-pain-au-chocolat-on-steroids before heading to Veliki Cuk (4b+), a 700m peak with views of the famous Anica Kuk.  The walk-in involved a steel cable to traverse some slippery limestone cliffs, but the base of our route had us drooling in anticipation of beautiful rock up a winding ridge and then slabs to the top.

Rachel on the penultimate pitch

The ridge climb was true alpine style and included a combination of bolts and some moves that felt better with trad gear.  Making good time, we reached the bottom of the slabs and looked up at two blocks that appeared more intimidating than they were when we arrived.  At the top, we admired the fluted patterns of karstic limestone that formed sharp knife-blades up here out of the way of human traffic.

Well pleased with some satisfying climbing and sunny skies, we added to the list of lunch-breaks-with-the-best-view's that we've been collecting and then scrambled down a steep gully and some scree to the base of a route up the next pinnacle of Veliki Cuk.  With plenty of daylight and still some energy, we dashed up the easy slabs and ran out three long pitches with barely any need for gear, enjoying the beautiful features and foot-width fluting that made for a delightful climb.

At the top, we paused to gape at the Adriatic Sea and red village rooftops of Paklenica to the west, before rain pelted down and had us questioning the sensibility of scrambling to the summit.  But the clouds soon blew further inland and we were sweating again, bounding over rough blocks to the top before beginning a descent that would have been treacherous had it not been for fixed steel cables lining the way.

Rain clearing over the western hills and the Adriatic Sea

A tired but happy team made our way back to Paklenica for a seaside meal of Greek salad and pizza in an open-air cafe, then back to our campsite a mere 10 minutes from the National Park entrance.

When we had arrived the night before, the Austrian couple next to us took pity on our efforts to hammer flimsy aluminum tent pegs into the rocky Mediterranean soil by offering some steel spikes and a lead hammer which sufficed to hold Rich's "two-man" tent upright through the night, but not until after we'd succeeded in bending each aluminum peg in half.  We thanked them profusely and later brought them a bottle of wine, and they answered in broken English, "we are very happy to help, it's like helping Kate and Wills go on honeymoon."

The Adriatic Sea

Tired enough to sleep through mosquitoes, economy-sized tents, and warm sleeping bags in greenhouse conditions, we awoke the next morning ready to tackle another mountain route.  On impulse we began to climb Zubatac, which we thought would go all the way up a stunning ridge.  As I started up the second pitch I quickly found myself on much steeper ground than I'd bargained for, and after fighting for a bit decided to retreat and let Rich have a go.  He didn't like it much better and we eventually realised there were three parallel lines and we were on the wrong one.  Some more misdirected efforts brought us part way up a horrendous scramble and down a steep scree descent, cutting our hands and legs on sharp limestone edges.  Banter about who deserved the 'Captain Faff' title ensued.

Veliki Cuk.  Our route went up the ridge in the foreground, then followed the face to the right of the crack in the center of the photo.

We moved on to Mali Cuk to attempt the star'd route up an arete to a small summit, but tired from earlier efforts, found it more than we could manage and ended up going for a walk whose views made up for the day's climbing frustrations.

Anica Kuk, a project for another day

Evening entertainment included a chat with the campsite owner in German, which is apparently the common language for foreigners, and makes me think that the 8:30am daily language classes during university are finally paying off.  Our landlady was surprised that someone with a US passport could carry on a conversation in German and seemed quite bewildered when, upon asking where we lived, she learned that I live in Britain and Rich in Canada.

It does not cease to amaze me that due to technologies such as RyanAir, I can go for just a long weekend to a foreign country with a completely different language and culture.  But with such quick weekend escapes comes the need to cram in as much as possible.

Thus we were packed, ready to go to the airport, and at the crag by 7am to get in a morning of single pitch sport climbing at Klanci, the narrow and very popular part of the valley.  I regained my confidence from the previous day's off-route nerves by leading easy routes, and Rich pushed himself on a nice roof route before it was time to go.

I must have brought the rain back to East Anglia.  As always a bit disappointed to return to the flatlands with the only mountains those of work, I'm reminded of how large a role the CUMC has played in my time in Cambridge.  It's a great thing to have climbing partners in all corners of the world whom, although I might not have seen them in a year or more, I can meet at an airport and when we throw gear into the rental car it feels as though nothing has changed since Tuesday pub meets and Sundays in the Peak district.

Sunset on the sea.  Even Rich couldn't help but stop for a photo.

Blustery at Birchen

Aiming to make the best of a limited weather window, Delphine and I made our way up to the Peak District with initial thoughts of a day at Burbage North but the overnight and morning rain had swollen the green covering to a slippy mess so after a brief inspection we headed for the more sheltered and immaculately clean rock of Birchen.  It proved to be a great decision.

Delphine below Sail Buttress after seconding Ratline

A grey start brightened slowly and after we warmed up on Powder Monkey Parade Delphine worked her way through the Birchen classics (Topsail, Sail Buttress, Porthole Direct) while I added some interesting climbs to my logbook.  Highlights included the Crow's Nest and the Ratline, the latter of which was either a soft touch 5b or somewhat easier for the tall.  Either way, after some consternation on the ledge before the crux, it punched the 5b club ticket.  Efficient climbing and taking our turns on lead gave us 9 routes in the day and a relaxed return to Cambridge with the obligatory stop for a mini fish and chips from the Union Jack in Chesterfield.

Delphine making the crux moves on Sail Buttress

Storms and fresh snow in the highlands

I decided to take a bit of a risk last weekend and miss the annual dinner for a weekend in the highlands with the hope of good weather to take some friends who were visiting from Canada up Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis.  Fresh snow down to 600m as I passed north through the Cairngorms did not bode well and a swift change of plan was in order, particularly given the forecast for degenerating conditions.  Climbing was out in the conditions available so, trying to leave some peaks between us and the approaching weather, we headed up Glen Affric with a walk up Mam Sodhail (1181m) as an objective.  Glen Affric is one of the most beautiful glens in Scotland with its wonderful combination of black, brooding loch and ancient stands of scots pine with the backdrop of jagged mountains circling the scene.  Unfortunately, all we could see of the backdrop were the speckles of snow on heather leading up in to the clouds.  We persevered and after some feet wetting fording of swollen streams we were on our path up in to the hanging valley which gave the most sheltered route to the summit. 

The swolen burn tumbling down from Coire Leachavie

The shelter offered diminished as we moved up through the snow line and eventually over the lip of the coire and on to the ridge leading to the summit.  Leaning in to the gusting wind, hoods down and grimacing we continued on up, wading through the odd snowdrift.  Spending only a brief moment at the top we decided that backtracking rather than continuing on round to Carn Eighe would be the wise decision so we turned and headed for the shelter of an old roofless hut a few hundred meters from the summit.

Wading through the snowdrifts on the way to the top

We stopped briefly for a sandwich in the shelter of the hut which was fantastically well built and bedded in to the hillside.  The graded stalkers path up through the coire must have seen considerable hoof fall from pony's carrying wood up to such an exposed position for any occupants to stand a chance of keeping warm even when there was a roof.  We hurried on down trying to generate a bit more heat, and once below the snow line faced the full force of the passing squalls, with which my tweed refused to cope.  It was a soggy walk back to the van but the distraction provided by the vibrant greens of the newly unfurled birch leaves and the uncoiling bracken against the burnt orange of the previous seasons growth eased the squelching, with the vibrant bluebells completing the collage of colour.

The increasing winds (110 mph gusts) and ferocious showers restricted us to the coast for Sunday but spotting an otter on Tarbet Ness and watching the downpours roll by provided a fun day without the need to visit higher places.

Looking up towards the Kyle of Sutherland from Tarbet Ness

 

Sunday Grit at Gardom’s

With a bit of a mixed forecast Rachel, Ben and I decided to plump for Gardom’s Edge in the east of the Peak District for a sheltered Sunday grit fix.  The skies darkened as we drew nearer Chesterfield and a rain shower did not bode well however, we were able to watch the showers pass by all day without any of any consequence reaching us.  Having not been to Gardom’s before I was pleasantly surprised at the excellent variety of climbs that the mix of the quarried and natural edge provides.  Even better was the feeling of sitting in the canopy at the belays with the dappled greens of birch and oak below.  

Sitting atop Apple Arete

 Apple Arete was our first target and this gave a lovely and at times exposed climb up a broad arête on the best king of mildly porous grit.  Rachel then led up N.M.C. Crack which was well worth the three stars following a stepped flake crack up the north side of Apple Buttress.

Ben moving out on to the arete of Apple Buttress

 

We then moved along to Finale Groove which Ben led allowing Rachel and I to enjoy the steep jamming and pinching without any worry of the consequences of a fall.  It is however easier to lead if you have nuts……and don’t drop them half way up.

Ben moving up to the crux ob Finale Groove

 It was then my turn again and I went for Gardom’s Unconquerable in an attempt to get over my failure on its twin on Stanage (luckily this one was a grade easier).  Great lay backing with a steepening and worryingly green and smooth slab for feet lead in two parts to the top, a committing but very enjoyable route.

Rachel Belaying while I take advantage of the rest half way up Gardom's Unconquerable

 Just round the corner it was Bilberry Buttress for Ben to lead which he did in style, only missing the direct finish which was admittedly impossible for the shorter climber but I enjoyed it thoroughly on second.  I then jumped in to lead again, tempted by the interesting line and potential for a sensational finish offered by Undertakers Buttress, another Joe Brown line.  The first move on to the ledge proved to be the crux for me, struggling with the off balance rock over I contrived to perform.  It was then a lovely stroll up some steep slabs, for which I was very glad of a solitary cam, before trending right under the overhang, struggling up on to the face and then back left on positive breaks to as near the nose as feels enjoyable.

Finnishing up the steep ground on Undertaker's Buttress

There was then time for one more lead before the weather followed through on its threats.  We chose to have a look neared where the car was parked and Rachel chose Moyer’s Climb which turned out to be a little green but offer a fun line across the buttress nonetheless.  There was just time to have a quick look around for future trips and figure out what else might offer some good climbing.  My high hopes for Och Aye Wall were somewhat dashed by the lack of holds and the polish that seemed to be on everything that could pass as a hold.  However, Moyer’s Buttress looks like a reason to come back in its own right.

            With time getting on we headed back to the car and making our usual stop at the Union Jack fish and chip shop in Chesterfield for a bargain mini fish and chips before whizzing back down the road to Cambridge.          

A windy weekend in the Lakes

Kane, Andy and I decided to take advantage of the good weather forecast and the day off for some wedding thing down in London to head up to the Lakes for the weekend.  Arriving in Langdale at around 7 in the evening we headed up the valley and past Angle Tarn before finding a flattish piece of ground which wasn't a bog to camp on.  Not a bad effort in the impending darkness.  Having stopped short of our target we got up early and after a brew headed across Scafell Pike, having the summit to ourselves just before 9:00, to reach Scafell crag and the cool shade of Central Buttress.

Scafell Crag

I led up the first pitch, a right to left slanting ramp, and ran through the second pitch to the base of the great flake, taking a series of first leftward and then rightward trending ledges.  Taking time to admire the views out to the sunny crags of Scafell Pike and the more distant fells which paled step by step to a hazy blue it seemed to have become colder on our north facing crag.  However, Andy would soon warm  up leading the crux pitch first up and then out on to the face of the  great flake, making thin moves upwards with endless drops below till  eventually what feel like jugs are reached and the top of the flake can  be traversed. At least that's how it felt to me and I had the safety of a rope above. 

Andy stepping out on to the exposed face of the great flake

Kane then led the fourth pitch, traversing left across a  series of pinnacles before heading back left in a horribly off balance  traverse with a ledge for the feet but precious little for the hands. A short corner then led to the belay before the final pitch.  

Andy seconding the fourth pitch, belayed by Kane

I decided  not to lead the final hard pitch, not wanting to push myself too hard on  the first climbing since returning from a month of fieldwork so Andy  took the end of the rope and finished off up what turned out to be a  fairly simple pitch for the 5a tag.  At last we made it in to the sun but then were also faced with increasingly strong gusts whipping across the hill.  We headed back down and decided against upping the grade on Saxon in favour of dropping a grade and moving in to the sun in which Pike Crag was basking.  So it was in to the sun and to the base of The Nave, an interesting mixed bag of climbing.  The first pitch led up through slabby ground on to a fine arête and eventually to a commodious belay ledge by which time wooly hats had been swapped for shorts and t-shirts.  Kane led the second pitch which was bold and sustained but on surprisingly good, if small holds that certainly convinced me of my need for better fitting shoes. 

Kane at the start of the crux pitch on The Knave

Andy then led a fairly nondescript pitch before I set of on a rambling mountaineering finish to the route running through slabs, vegetation and a final corner before confronting the wind once more at the belay.  It was then down to set up the tents which we had placed behind a rock earlier in the day.  A time was spent enjoying the sun set before retreating to the warmth of the tents.

Sun setting through Broad stand after a great day

The wind rose during the night curtailing sleep and discouraging us from the high crags beside which we were well placed so instead we descended in to Eskdale and headed towards Esk Buttress.  Kane had an E2 in mind but in what was still some fairly blustery conditions I managed to talk him down to Square Chimney/Medusa Wall combination which in the conditions provided a great challenge.  I led the first two pitches, first up a 15 m chimney which contained more climbing than its length would suggest and then traversing leftwards across an exposed slab, avoiding the moss, which with every move was blown in to a cloud of debris which unavoidably became trapped in my eyes (I would still be retrieving pieces of moss when I got back to Cambridge).  The foot and hand holds were in fact pleasingly free from debris.  The route then headed up a corner to a narrow ledge which would become far more cramped when my two seconds arrived.  Gusts of wind were now hurtling down the crag trying to send me backwards from the belay.  As Andy came back in to view leading the third pitch his ropes were arching upwards in the wind but he found a sheltered perch and brought us up leaving the final and spectacular pitch up the arête of the headwall to Kane who carried on up the upper scramble on perfect rock.

Andy seconding the 4th and 5th pitches of Square Chimney/Medusa Wall

The wind had taken its toll and when we got back to the base of the crag we decided that an amble back to Langdale over Bow Fell and whatever else may take our fancy was the best decision.  We crossed the Great Moss and headed up the southern spur of Esk Pike, a fantastic pathless route away from any crowds.  By the time we reached Ore Gap we had nearly been taken off our feet on several occasions so once up Bow Fell we took the quickest and very pleasant descent down the Band and in to Langdale, pausing to enjoy the views of the blue backed pikes on the north side of the valley before enjoying the perfect recovery snack of a pint of coke, a packet of pork scratchings and an ice cream at the Old Dungeon Ghyll.

Gimmer and Pike of Stickle below beautiful blue

All that then remained was the drive back to Cambridge via Harrogate to drop off Andy and the Wetherby Whaler to gain some much needed energy.  Another great weekend out climbing but with the added bonus of camping and some fun walking thrown in for good measure.

Sat 30 April 2011: Rivelin

Four of us went to lovely south-facing Rivelin in the Peak District on Saturday for some sunny and warm gritstone.  Highlights included Rodney's Dilemma, David's Chimney, Scarlett's Chimney (one nice jamming move after another!), and that silly route where you leap for two pockets and tiptoe up the slab.  Delphine and Frederic showed us that French climbers can climb cracks and place gear, not just quickdraws.

No photos, but Rivelin is here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=86 in the UKC logbook.  Northwest of Sheffield, easy to get to; follow the A57 from the M1 and park by Rivelin Reservoir.