Summer so far (yep, we have actually been climbing)

So it was off to Greenland which saw the end of Scottish winter but certainly not the end of winter for me with a brisk -43 (well, off the scale).  A few more peaks also with Parnas, Gulehorn, Kathedralen and the north top of the Pothorst Bjerge in Jameson Land and a foray in to the Stauning Alper on Snekuppel (1480m).

Another fine day in East Greenland (view west from point 850, above Permdal)

Back to summer and back to rock and a fine list of crags:

Bamford; and the strenuous Gunpowder Crack, with its tricky 5b start, and the classics of Gargoyle Buttress and Brown’s Crack gave a great day or Howie, Vidya and myself,

On the final photogenic moves of Gargoyle Flake

Froggatt esoterica; starting, after a bit of a search, at Tegness Pinnacle which gave a great start to the day before moving through some great routes on the more isolated and secluded cracks and buttresses which eventually led us to a few of the more classic lines with Howie making a fine lead of Motorcade,

Atop the Tegness Pinnacle

The Lakes; with Tophet Wall and Eagles Nest Ridge Direct offering the introduction with Zeb and Drew, a brief adventure in to a sport(ish) quarry in the evening to meet up with Harry and a run up the Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect to beat the weather before beating a retreat back south to Cambridge after a great weekend,

Zeb starting up Tophet Wall

Stanage; with Cold Turkey and Cave Arete suggesting I might be ready to push my grade,

Dovestones Tor; saw a good turn out from the CUMC on a baking hot day with Ursula, Drew, Zeb, Goldie, Ramsay, et al. and a chance to make that leap to E1 with the ‘easiest E1 on grit’, Lancaster Flyby.  Dutifully dispatched it led on to some amazing climbs including Great Buttress, Thread Flintstone and Route 1 by the Shylock Finish.

Harborough Rocks; yes, I like grit and this was not going to change my mind but nice to catch up with Vincent once more and then carry on for some classics at Birchen in a midge infested evening.

Birchen; a midge infested evening still better than limestone and ticking a few I have previously missed (Hammock, Captain’s Perogative) and providing a nice introduction to grit for a very keen Dutchman – more keen to get to the pub after he discovered the Black Lurcher at the Three Stags Heads,

Almscliff

Almscliff; why have I never been there before! Fluted Columns, Square Chimney & Whisky Crack, The Traditional Climb, Demon Wall and to finish, the stunning Overhanging Groove which I just managed to hold on to……unlike Demon Wall.

Overhanging Grove at Almscliff

Stanage; again to round off the gritstone training for Arjan with The Flange providing the highlight for me and a good lead of Central Trinity from Arjan,

Stanage

Pass of Ballater; provided another great day of climbing in the north with Medium Cool challenging the nerve and leading to some intense ‘savouring’ in a slightly damp state and Lucky Strike and Little Cenotaph showing just how much quality there is in the pass and much more to come back to.  A midsummer blizzard on Lochnagar and it was off to,

After 'savouring' the slab of Maximum Cool, Pass of Ballater

Sandwood Bay; could be the best climbing location in the world and a lazy climb up Marram made the finale to an amazing weekend camped in the dunes.

Best view from any climb in the UK?

On the second pitch of Marram

Then I was to miss the annual meet to Cornwall with another trip to Greenland.  Oh well.

Alpine Hawkweed

A winter finale - Tower Ridge 19-2-12

Of course climbing Tower Ridge, one of the longest winter climbs in Scotland, was a great idea for the Sunday weather window before having to be back south for work at 9:00 on Monday morning in Cambridge!  Well, at least it would allow a fun evening in Aberdeen and a re-familiarisation with Beanachie before the approaching blizzards took hold and sent me south to Edinburgh to pick up Rich and make our plans for the trip west to Ben Nevis.

Opening skies as we approached the base of Tower Ridge

The guidebook recommendation of 6-10 hours was a little off-putting but with an early start and the good weather forecast we were feeling confident.  So to make the 6:30 alarm call a little more palatable we decided to head across for a park up in the north face car park.  I was looking a little doubtful that we would make it as the car park as the A9 grew narrower with fresh snow encroaching on the tarmac.  Blizzards continued to threaten our progress as we wound our way through from Dalwhinnie to Laggan but after what seemed like far longer than was reasonable we drew in to the car park and quickly crawled in to our sleeping bags, excited with what the next day was going to offer.  We weren’t to hear our alarm, being woken by the early starters sorting their climbing kit, which must have consisted entirely of hexes (cow bells) by the noise that was being made.

Our early start was no longer dependant on an alarm and we soon found ourselves striding up the steep path, in the faint light of what passed for morning, through the forested slopes towards the Allt a’Mhuilinn.  In fact, pretty soon Rich found himself striding on boldly alone as I found my hill legs somewhat lacking.  I think I covered up for this well though with the suggestion that I was just warming up and trying to avoid injury! 

The North Face appearing from behind the swirling cloud

As the north face reared in to view to our right the assembled ramparts, ridges and corries appeared and then were again shrouded in the swirling clouds.  Behind us patches of blue were allowing a blush of pink on to the snow topped hills to the north.  The weather that we had been hoping for was on it’s way.  Unfortunately so to were what now seemed like every climber in Scotland so we quickly made our way past the CIC Hut and round the imposing Douglas Boulder to the shallow gully leading up to the Douglas Gap where a short chimney leads up on to Tower Ridge.  One pair were already there but we were happy to let them carry on while we lost ourselves in the views out in to Coire na Ciste with ant like dots crawling across its floor and fluted cornices draping the coire rim.

Coire na Ciste

Climbers on Smith's Route

With the team ahead out of sight and a gaggle of French, light and fast climbers past we drew our attention back in and I took the lead up the steep chimney which led to the ridge crest.  Furnished with deep, secure holds in summer it was now time to trust these with axes in hand.  In fact wool clad hands were often a better option until near the top after some awkward moves the axes bit in to some re-assuring nevé.  To speed our ascent and to try to be nearer the 6 than 10 hours predicted by the guidebook I was just going to run out the rope once up the chimney, but time had to be taken once on the ridge proper which was now bathed in bright sunshine.  The huge gouged corries dropped away to the left and right, the walls of which hold classic climb after classic climb defined by the ribbons of blue, with occasional ragged edges of icicles hanging from shadowy overhangs.  Zero, Hadrian’s Wall, Point Five, Smith’s all with black specks clinging to their blue tiers.  The occasional shout and rattle of gear giving away their positions in the still clarity of the winter air.

Hadrian's Wall

Running out the rope on the easy ground along the ridge crest I decided Rich might want a firm belay for the initial step chimney and took a stance when the rope cam tight.  Rich made short work of the chimney despite finding it pretty tricky.  We carried on along the beautifully sinuous snow ridge which led to the second steepening and with a traverse right, then leftward trending climbing up steep, blocky but secure ground led us to the next easing in the ridge which ran up to the base of the little tower.  The climbing had offered little in the way of technical difficulty so far but the variety, building exposure and lack of secure runners made me welcome a break.  Taking a seat I happily took in the ropes and waited for Rich to appear back on the ridge crest.  Another great excuse to take in the ever opening panorama.

Rich following up the ridge to below the little tower

After a chocolate bar and a swig of water I was off upwards once more.  We were making good time but I did not want to relax with much of the difficulties forecast for the upper reaches of the ridge.  The left side of the little tower looked most attractive with a series of rocky steps and intervening snowy ledges.  First though was an awkward flake which would cause a few problems for Rich, especially with just one crampon.  I would be oblivious to the problems unravelling below until our next meeting when my nerve found the solace of a large block just below the summit of the little tower a welcome break.  The snow on the ledges had a disappointing inconsistency but added interest to the climbing, especially when combined with iced an unreceptive cracks and the increasing drag of the ropes.  Some awkward steps led up to a low angled left facing corner which thankfully held an ice smear, which unfortunately prohibited gear placements.  A step out right on to steep snow slopes and I could edge my way to the beckoning block belay out to the right.  After some time Rich arrived, shaking his head and telling of his ordeal at the difficult flake, crampon flailing loosely from his foot.  He had managed to retrieve and skilfully re-attach it, but unfortunately left my hex and sling which admittedly, I had placed high and hammered in.  Perhaps this skill with crampons was the benefit of having, so many times, donned crampons and gear far too late after the approach up the ever steepening slopes which tend to lead to winter climbs.

Trying to find protection on the Eastern Traverse

A couple of short steps and we were on the next easing with the Great Tower now rising above us.  An added air of impregnability had drifted in with the cloud which now shrouded the summit.  However, the airy Eastern Traverse provides the path past this bastion.  Moving up to the base of the tower I found a runner at the start of the traverse and took Rich up so as he would have a grandstand view of the worrying moves that lay ahead.  Once engaged on the traverse the absorbing nature of winter climbing soon allowed the exposure to drift from my mind but in the initial steps down the short snow slope which ends abruptly, hiding the sheer drops below, it takes all my effort to push the dizzying drops from my mind.  The enjoyment increased with a couple of solid runners which sent the rope looping back to Rich.  Soon I was round the corner and making my way up the secure snow slope beneath which lay the summer through route behind a huge chock-stone which was just visible through the snow.  A further short traverse and an old peg signalled time for a direct climb.  The steep, and in places undercut, blocky steps that led upwards required some technical climbing but here the snow was consistent and good ice could dribbled over the lip of each step.   The traverse and steep climbing which followed were the highlight of the climb so far, offering such contrast on secure axe placements.  Finding a good belay was a different matter and eventually I found a reasonable pair of nuts and after resolving a few rope problems Rich joined me.  Now there was just Tower Gap to go.

The ridge narrows to about two feet with Tower Gap forming a 3m deep slot separating the ridge from the final rocky steps and sweeping snow slope which leads to the summit plateau.  Cliffs and snow slopes plunge away to either side, so after some careful steps I was glad to reach the large blocks which mark the start of the 3m down-climb in to the gap itself.  A sling round the large block gave some added confidence but luckily in this section of leading the rope is above and it is the second who, as Rich was to find out, will have to suffer if a slip occurs.  Axes placed in solid nevé at the lip of the gap, I leaned out, smearing my right foot on a snow dusted wrinkle.  Ah, there was the foothold for the left foot.  Now there was enough security to reach out right and get a balancing axe placement before lowering down on to the square cut blocks which floor the gap.  Happy with my avoidance of the congregation of old slings and cord which is often used to ease the down-climb I made the tricky moved to exit the gap directly and took up a belay below the final rocky step.

Rich approaching Tower Gap

Now it was Rich’s turn and he made his way along the narrowing ridge and tentatively peered in to the gap.  Reaching a good position with axes placed and feet on holds on the walls of the gap, with a sudden jerk, he was gone.  An axe had ripped out and he was now swinging above Glover’s Chimney.  Luckily no harm had been done but it transpired that his axe had not ripped but rather his hand had slipped out of his glove, and in turn the wrist loop of the axe, which had been thrown upwards and with lightening reactions Rich had then caught the axe as it fell past him.  Not a graceful decent, but effective.  Brushing himself down Rich quickly and with a hint of anger at the misfortune made his way up to the belay to take a rest. 

‘Well, at least you caught your axe’, consoling ourselves that things could have been worse. Placed his luckily retained axes below the belay Rich highlighted their presence and reminded me to not kick them off down in to the abyss.  A miscalculated movement and Rich set one of his own axes dancing off down the slopes.  Bugger.  Not ideal but all we had left was a small rocky step and then a final continuation of the ridge before the steepening snow slopes led to the summit.  The steepening final slopes added a final excitement to the route, on perfect and receptive snow, but I thought Rich might quite appreciate one of my axes and so sent one down on the rope, asking that he tried not to lose this one (OK, I didn’t ask this as I thought it would be far to mean – remarkable self restraint!).

Both lying on the plateau the exhaustion of our seven hours of climbing required a moments rest but was tempered by the elation of another day spent as I wish I could spend every day – among the ever changing beauty of the mountains.  The earlier blue skies and sparkling sunlight which had thrown the earlier mountain scene in to breathtaking focus, with every shimmering ice crystal perfectly sharp, had now succumbed to lowering cloud.  Looking across the plateau all that greeted us was white.  Rich took over navigation allowing me to rest a little after leading the climbing.  Soon and with fantastic skill we were following the line of cairns towards the zig-zag tourist track.  Luckily our reliance on a single torch was not tested on the climb itself as with the orange glow of Fort William casting upwards on to the darkening sky I decided it was time to excavate our single torch from my bag and set it to work in helping find the ‘path’ across the morass towards Allt a’Mhuilinn.  A brief flicker, then nothing!  However, we were soon over the river and back to the van and on the way south to Edinburgh before an all to brief sleep and a futile attempt to make it back to Cambridge for work at 9:00.  Oh well, some weekends are well worth it and this had been one of them for sure!  

Return of Winter

It seemed like winter was back, we had been rock climbing in snow so now it was time to scour the forecasts and keep in constant contact with the Highland weather station (my parents house).  Consecutive overnight lows of -5 at 100m gave enough hope to make the trip north for a long weekend.  First picking up Kane and then Andy we made the long trip north of Inverness with a classic forecast and the hope of a new route awaiting.  Just the one oversight came to light as I realised I had forgotten any music for the 9 ½ hour drive.  All was not lost and we resolved to take all local radio stations along the way which would give us an interesting soundtrack.  We arrived at my parents at 2:00 am, straight to bed and up at 6:30 for an early start on the long approach to Alladale.  This we eased with bikes but my borrowed option would have been more suitable for a child with its diminutive frame.  Nonetheless I was glad of it on the way back.

The snowy coire at the west end of Alladale

The ground was well frozen boding well for ice conditions.  A lovely silence, the type you only get with an extended period of hard frost, filled the glen and the pink of the sunrise topped the valley sides and was cast across the snow clad back wall of the coire contrasting with the pure blue above.  Ice smears dribbled down the glacially smoothed Alladale Slabs which form the south side of the glen but as we started to see in to the gully which splits the slabs and had been our target it became clear that it had been too dry and only the top of the ice line had formed.  It would have been possible to climb the line but it would not have done justice to what should, no-doubt, be a fantastic route when it does form.   

It will form sometime

After a brief feeling of disappointment we turned our attention to the North Face of An Socach which held the intimidating Alladale Pillar and a trio of further routes named The Pimp, The Wimp and The Gimp.  As we topped the lip of the hanging coire it seemed that the Gimp was to be the best formed and so we raced up to its base and started gearing up, as usual, on ground way too steep for comfort. 

The foreshortened icefalls of The Gimp (we took the left to right slanting ramp round the arete to pass the lower thin icefall in the centre of the picture)

After arranging a turf peg belay I led out the first pitch, aiming for the base of the main ice fall.  After 40m of thin ice, steep ground and one descent runner I was in need of a belay and judging the ice above to be on the thin side of reliable I cut out left to where I found two dubious pegs and a solid placement for my one remaining turf peg.  It was then Kane’s turn to take the lead and he also decided that the lower icefall was not going to offer a route so traversed up and right to a hanging arête which had to be turned to access the upper ice fall.  Some tough out of balance moves took him round on to the ice and out of view. 

Kane trying to get axe placements on the mixed crux of The Gimp

Taking in the exposure on The Gimp

When it came to my turn to follow the technicality of the moves was eclipsed by the plunging exposure, accentuated by the off balance step round the arête allowing toes to teeter above the congregated icicles extending below.  It was then up steep ice to a solid belay.  Andy led on to the top and the desolate beauty of the plateau, equal in impact to the Cairngorms, from which the views opened up around the whole of the highlands and made descent a difficult decision to make. 

.................nothing more need said (difficult to walk down in these conditions)

A slightly smaller version of the Cairngorms, atop An Socach

With hope was the only way to view the forecast for the next day but I convinced myself that the 75mph gusts would drop in to the afternoon and that Beinn Dearg was really not in the west.  So obviously Penguin Gully was to be the target.  An interesting route for its provenance as well as its quality, with its first ascent by Tom Patey and W.H. Murray, two climbers a generation apart, and two of the most inspirational writers on Scottish winter climbing.  A good meal and an early night and we were leaving the car at 8:00 for the 10km walk up to the West Buttress of Beinn Dearg, which we had decided would be sheltered from the southerly winds.  When Andy was upended for the second time it started to become clear that the winds were quite serious.  But I still had hope and with a look in to the icy runnel of Penguin Gully I was committed.   

The lower icefall, and icy runnel above, of Penguin Gully

Andy wasn’t feeling to well so made his way back down to the Van while I led on up the first steep icefall to access the lower gully.  The predicted thaw meant quite a soaking when the gusts whipped the heavy shower of drips across the icefallwindslab meant my every last effort had to me made to kick in steps up the final few metres but over the top the wall was all I needed for a belay and with my feet braced behind it I took in the rope and revelled in exhausted reflection on the fantastic route we had just completed.

We walked out west following the familiar wall along the ridge before dropping back down to the forestry track before 3:00.  Unfortunately this resulted in us making it to Inverness and a pub to watch the rugby (not a great result for Scotland – when will it be realised that Dan Parks should not be playing at international level!).  It was then on to the Cairngorms for a final day of climbing before the drive south.

So, the answer to the question posed in the last paragraph came pretty quickly and lets hope Scotland fare a bit better this weekend.  Anyway, this is not a sports blog but a climbing blog!  So after the disappointment of the rugby we headed up to Aviemore and found a nice park up in the Sugar Bowl car park, just off the road up to the ski centre.  An early start saw us making the amble around to Coire an t-Sneachda just after 7:00 with our minds set on Fluted Buttress Direct.  Unfortunately we were pipped to it and after a bit of a wait we realised those in front of us were going to be there for some time and transferred with a leftward traverse in to Wavelength.

Gearing up below Fluted Buttress

Kane took the first pitch, taking a left slanting line across iced slabs and in to Twisting Gully where he found a belay.  It was then Andy to take the lead, moving back right and through several corners before halting on a large ledge with an intimidating wall rising steeply behind him.  Rope drag persuaded him that a belay was required and I realised that my position as a passenger on this climb was over and the gear was dutifully handed over to me for the next pitch.  

Andy on the second pitch of Wavelength

The first obstacle was the steep wall above the belay.  Two options could be seen; a series of fractures to the left, which Andy had looked at but only found rounded granite, and an awkwardly angled groove to the right.  It was to the right I moved, past an unappealing corner to a sloping ledge with a steep crack above.  Contemplating my next move, I eventually found a placement for a hex to ease my worry and then muttered those words I hate so much, 'watch me here' (not because I am about to do something spectacular and want an audience, but rather, I'm about to make a move I am unsure is within my ability and may follow it with a downward motion over which I will have no control).  I placed my left foot up to the left of the crack, smeared  on a rounded horizontal break in the granite.  Finding some thin turf deep in the crack I embedded my left axe as far as I could, which only gave a remote feeling of security.  Hooking my right axe in to a shallow vertical groove running down the right wall of the crack I started an awkwardly off balance rock over on to my left foot.  My left axe was now at my waist, the turf in which it was embedded looking thinner and thinner.  Wrestling to regain balance I reached up and hooked the block above, and to my joy, not only was it a good hook, there was turf!  A sharp swing and the reassuring thud brought me relief and I pulled on up to a good ledge.  As is so often the case, the joy of having made it through a crux encourages one on and it is only after another 10m that you realise that some gear would have been a good idea.  The next hard section has arrived and it is still just protected by a hex which was now a worrying distance below.  The line was now, however clear with a series of corners following a well defined groove towards the fracture line of Fluted Buttress Direct.  The lack of good snow or ice continued to frustrate feet placements but good truf was always forthcoming at just the right moments.  There was then a lovely step round an arete and in to the left branch of Fluted Buttress Direct.  A few more moves and I started to worry about how much rope was left and made for a crack to set op a belay (it turned out I did have 2m to spare!).  It had been a long pitch and I was now glad of the rest.

Worsening conditions on the belay

Above a well defined groove led up to a steepening boulder choked chimney and Kane was soon on his way up.  Once he arrived at the steeper upper section the perspective seemed to change with 'steep' being less appropriate than overhanging, and the pauses for gear placement confirmed to me it's difficulty.  Kane still made short work of it and was soon belaying just below the final ridge which led to the plateau.  True enough, approaching the upper chimney was an intimidating experience but once established, solid hooks seemed to just keep on appearing and the enclosed nature of the climbing allowed bridging and lessened the exertion.  However, with the sustained nature of the climbing we certainly agreed that the route did seem somewhat undergraded in the condition we found it.  

Andy on the final pitch of Wavelength

With blizzards closing in Andy took on the short ridge to a sheltered final belay.  Once there we quickly coiled the ropes and descended the goat track to in to the relative shelter of the coire.  Stuffing the rucksacks full of all our kit we hurried back to the van and started the long drive south.  Pulling in to Cambridge at 2:30 on Monday morning I was absolutely shattered but as always it was well worth it for three excellent climbs, and notable in their different styles and the variability in the accompanying weather.  Another great weekend and enough to encourage the next trip after a weekends rest.

Winter Grit (29-1-12)

Now if the forecast doesn’t look to bad but probably a bit chilly and potentially some snow on the ground, the obvious choice to me would be a north facing crag high up in North Yorkshire.  So it was this badly flawed logic that saw us flying up the road to painfully harp gritstone on Rylstone, that is, after a half hour diversion just outside Cambridge.

Snowy Rylstone

There is not much to say about this tip other than it happened.  The warm banter was about the only warmth available from which to draw solace, however watching others go through hot aches on short rock routes did provide some entertainment.  Dental Slab was the focus of the group, only mildly perturbed by the thin ice smear at half height.  Presidents Slab also went, but ice filled holds on the upper section of Castrol repelled an attempt at the second pitch.

Possibly not the best friction day on Dental Slab at Rylstone as Donald moves up past the ice smear

Then came the highpoint of the day……..leaving.  Well, not just leaving, but making the short hop to Eastby, which turned out not to be the scrappy set of ribs and turf it appeared from the road but a set of towering buttresses of south facing, perfect, clean, warm gritstone (ok, maybe not warm).  The highlight here was undoubtedly Pillar Rib but everyone squeezed in one more climb to finish the day on a high with the bonus of having visited a great new crag which will be well worth a return visit.  Obviously the highlight of any trip to Yorkshire was the Wetherby Whaler on the way back south.   

Eeking out some routes in a thawing Cairngorms

The embodiment of enthusiasm in adversity

Having spent a whole two weeks waiting for the weather to improve it was clear that Christmas in the north was not going to be a classic for climbing, however a long standing plan to have Arjan visit for the last weekend of my holiday (7th-8th) for an introduction to Scottish winter climbing had me scouring the conditions blogs and weather forecasts for a glimmer of hope.  I didn't find any, so with the only hints of a less bad location being east and high it was going to be the Cairngorms.  Luckily Arjan's enthusiasm took over and his positive attitude to the dripping and sometimes flowing ice was extremely refreshing.

High winds looked like they could be a problem for Saturday but I had heard of a fair accumulation of ice on the lower and possibly more sheltered Lurchers Crag, towards the north end of the Lairig Ghru.  A 6:30 start was decided upon due to the forecasted rising temperatures through the day.  Excitement started to creep in as we left the sugar bowl car park, head torches on, and peering in to the darkness.  Light was just starting to brighten the sky as we reached the Chalamian Gap and helped us across the tricky jumble of boulders which fill this perched glacial outwash channel.  It was then in to the looming gouge of the Lairig Ghru with the clouds just above the base of the 3000ft high pass and just high enough to reveal numerous icy trickles descending through the impending crags.

Central Gully on Lurchers Crag looking quite promising

After some precarious boulder hopping we made it to the bottom of Central Gully which looked to contain the most promising ice line, sporting three clear pitches of which the topmost looked a serious challenge and certainly warranting the suggested elevated grade in lean snow conditions.  Soloing up to the base of the first stepped ice fall the volume of running water was a little distressing but the hanging fangs of the tiered ice were to enticing to circumvent so with a cautious approach I started up the first pitch.  Although a little insecure a couple of rock runners and the soft nature of the ice smoothed the way for enjoyment of the setting and the anticipation of the pitches that lay ahead.  After moving up to the base of the next icefall Arjan took the lead, carefully testing the ice to find the most solid line, which a thicker ribbon, accumulated in a groove on the left side of the icefall, provided, even allowing a couple of only slightly suspect ice screw placements.  Following up this pleasantly angled but fairly sustained pitch the next obstacle came in to view, holding within a spectacular array of ice fringed bulges with a depth of blue that tells of better ice than we had yet encountered.

Taking a direct line up the upper ice fall

Starting below the dripping and thaw contorted icicles to the left encouraged rapid progress (to get in to the dry) as did the sinking axe placements and the the steep angle of the ice.  This was however, the sort of pitch it is tempting to abseil back down and climb again.  Unfortunately it was over all to soon despite needing to use the rope stretch to reach a very secure belay round a massive granite block.  Untying, we made our way up the last 100m of turf and patchy snow to meet the icy blast that awaited on the plateau.  Descending the spur to the north allowed us to miss the blocky recceses of the Chalamain Gap.  Once below the cloud base the land out towards the Monadhliath seemed alight with blaze of low sunlight streaming through the clouds but by the time we regained the van darkness had begun to fall.

Some beer and good food and it was time to bed down for a 6:00 start to Sunday, trying to snatch something from worsening climbing conditions.  By 8:30 we were standing below the Mess of Pottage in Coire an t-Sneachda trying to figure out what might be in condition.  The comment from a fellow climber that the Haston Line had a tricky tech. 5 crux in lean conditions stripped some of my enthusiasm but after some encouragement from Arjan I managed to convince myself that the thin smears of ice may offer some help rather than just blank out all the cracks for any protection. 

The Haston line takes a rising traverse line across the Mess of Pottage during which a tricky notch behind a small pinnacle has to be threaded before the crux corner is surmounted and easier ground follows on to the top.  Arriving at the crux the build up of snow on the sloping ledge was of little help in decreasing the height of the awkward corner which lay ahead.  After some contrivance a couple of nuts were worked in to some less than perfect cracks....,best only worried about if falling entered the equation.  I started reaching up to investigate where my axes might get purchase.  Fantastic - one slotted in to a helpfully crack and just lodged, in a way that inspired confidence  And it was going to have to as the next move required laying away off the axe, walking my feet up the left wall, and then bridging out right before I could find the next placement.  The few millimetres of ice smeared down the walls of the corner actually made the footwork feel relatively secure and eventually I was in a fairly strong position even if mid crux, escape being by an off balance step out left on to what now seemed like a reassuringly icy slab (up to 1/2 a centimetre of ice in some thin ribbons), it seemed like a good time to sling a spike.  Bugger one sling was trapped round my back, entangled in my rucksack - right leg, smeared on thin ice, starting to shake, suddenly not entirely happy - eventually a runner was on the spike and I could stop shaking and move on.  Leaving one axe in place and finding a decent hand hold it was possible to work my left foot up on to the slab and rock over to reach to the reassuring thud of an axe finding frozen turf.  Feet working their way across the thinly iced slab and axes eventually finding greater and greater quantities of turf, ice and snow I soon made it up to the belay and brought Arjan up.

Arjan, again seemed to enjoy the challenge and was soon continuing upwards to investigate the possibilities above.  First going right and looking in to Hidden Chimney where he found a gaggle of climbers, hidden, clinging to what looked like not much in the way of snow or ice.  So a traverse left and up The Slant was in order which took us to the lip of the coire and out on to the plateau.  Blown back down the hill and making it back to the van by 1:30 we knew that we had made the best of the conditions and Arjan had had 'an' introduction to Scottish winter climbing if not the best introduction.  A relaxed drive south saw us in the flat lands before midnight and already chatting about the next trip.  A return of winter will certainly be required before then though.